Head's off. ARP Studs finger loose (block side), proper torque? (progress pics too)

[IwantMKIII]

Some of the ARP main studs are finger loose after removing the head. All the nuts were very tight when removing. Question is, what torque should I be applying to get them tight again? I assume this is what the allen wrench holes are for in the top of the studs? Should thread lock be used?



Progress:

Heads off. Removed the nuts in about 6 passes. Minus the, what im assuming to be, viton left on the head its incredibly straight given its history (used a long straight edge to judge this). Ill know more once I get it to the machine shop so its perfectly smooth. Stopper is in near perfect shape as well. Pistons are not looking too well on the top (just really tough, hard build up). Cylinder walls are in very good shape from the limited knowledge I know, all cross-haching is still clearly visible, here are some crappy pics:

 

[suprarx7nut]

When installing ARP studs, they only go on hand tight. You can use an allen wrench to get them a little tighter, but a while back they didn't even have that hex insert, so your only choice was hand tight. Just get them hand tight again and you're fine.

I dont know if thread lock would do you any good or not, but I dont recall ARP calling for that. In fact, I highly doubt it since they call for you to use assembly lube and I'm not sure you can use thread lock at the same time as assembly lube... :dunno:

 

[IwantMKIII]

Ok did not know finger tight was normal. I never installed them to begin. Thanks!