Continuing on with the cylinder head porting, I finished off the exhaust ports (did some more cleaning and radiused some sharp corners) Also did some combustion chamber work. Radiused the sharp squish area on the port sides of the chambers and removed the factory valve shrouding.
With doing...
Continuing on with the cylinder head porting, I finished off the exhaust ports (did some more cleaning and radiused some sharp corners) Also did some combustion chamber work. Radiused the sharp squish area on the port sides of the chambers and removed the factory valve shrouding.
With doing...
Turbo C16 is designed to be a slower burning fuel and to keep egt's down. I dont have much experiance with meth/water injection but im sure once they are tuned correctly they work very well. Personally, I like getting reassurance that I have all the octane needed when pushing big boost, no...
running race gas and meth together would be pointless. With just running C16 you will have all the octane you need. Even if you lean out during tuning it will forgive as you get the optimum tune. You can loose power using such a high octane fuel but it will also allow you to run more timing in...
Your engine will last hella longer on race fuel except for your O2 sensor. knock will be the end of any motor tho.
This is the info for the turbo fuel from the VP website.. This stuff is freaking great, Ive seen 14:1 compression ratios with 19psi of boost and the engines have lasted over...
If your not going to drive it much under high boost just run racegas. Look up VP's C16, its made to support the needs of a turbo engine. If any slight mistakes in tuning happen the extra octane could save you from burn down.
Thats awesome, thanks for the info on that jdub. Damn I got some more work to do now! :evil2:
I take it with you giving me this info this is a suitable/good mod to do to the 7m?
I was thinking toyota oem guides, depending which was a better value.
What will unshrouding the valves do for me? any reliablilty issues or other points to bring about?
I find it funny how you know what im doing already lol. My work is great once again, since I have access to precision...
Its not that I dont belive a 7m cant be built to be reliable. Mine will be fairly reliable depending on how far I push it and treat it.
The next build will be a JZ and thats what I want to do the big spending on.
I really like the sounds of this upgrade, its not overkill for what my goals are. There will be no over stock revving hence im running stock rods (shot peened) and arp bolts. My goals are staying the same but they just seem to always want to wander farther off trail to make something bigger...
I was getting some what ancy after seeing all the summer cars coming out sportin theyr rims so I just had to see what the ones I purchased for the soup looked like while on the car.. They deff need shorter rubber, tires on rims are 235/55/17. Im thinkin I just might run the 55 tread on the rear...
Now if I was to go with oversized valves would they come with new seats or would I get my machine shop to cut the existing seats to accomidate the larger valves? Also what kind of $$ would it cost to buy up those beauty's?
lookin good so far. Id like to see what the red looks like once installed. Im doing some red on my build also, but more so only on "hidden" pieces to give a light accenting to the engine bay. Now painting the the ps resovoir, if you get ps fluid on the paint will it peel like brake fluid will do...
Only problem with refacing vales from an import engine it removes the stalite coating on the faces. They wouldnt last any length of time without it. Especially under alot of boost I couldnt see them taking that..
Ive been searching around and havent come across any stock replacement vavles... Maybe im looking in the wrong place or something idk. I need a full set for the exhaust side. The current ones in my portorted cyl head have slight pitting on them and I dont not want to have to go through a valve...
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