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So my build has taken a large leap backwards, the head is back off due to a shim bucket breaking while i was trying to set the timing, It appears as though it happened because the shop that rebuilt the head forgot to put a shim in this bucket :icon_mad: This has forced me to stop being in...

If the price is right, I'm in! Although, i think the front sketch would be better if you actually saw the rest of the front bumper

Very nice! Is that a Mig or a Tig?

::dead horse:: Use the instructions provided with the ARP hardware!! For studs, using arp moly in all the appropriate places, 80 ft/lb :edit: 81 jdub? I put on my studs not too long ago, and i Swear arp's instructions said 80! lol the 1 lb won't make a diff as much as the calibration of your...

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=89 and http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=92

It shows in the TSRM, theres protrusions on both sides, one is just a notch though, its the large protrusion facing forward Edit: I can't find a diagram as clear as I remember, so don't blame it on me if you mess up ;)

What were your bearing clearances? Did you lube up the bearings? What are your mains / rods torqued to? Did the crank turn smoothly during assembly? If it's your bearings, and it took that much force to turn it over, I'd be nervous about spinning one!

Wow i can't believe this many people are in without knowing the cost! That said I am very interested, if the price is right!

I went and got a ratcheting 14 mm wrench, so it doesn't take long at all anymore :), and the top right is actually the worst, thanks to the coolant pipes!

Got more done today, mostly little things. Sexified the harness with all new tape and split loom, all fire-retardant (Right Aaron?) As far as the turbo goes, how the hell are you supposed to properly torque the top 2 nuts (turbo x manifold), theres only enough room for a open wrench, no 14mm...

Rice Krispy gasket FTW! lol, I'll be keeping an eye on this thread bro :)

Definitely follow ARP's directions! For stud's it is 80 ft/lb's when using ARP moly. Use the moly on both sides of the threads, and both sides of the washers. I installed my studs out of the car, and found that I had to remove each stud because there was no room for the washers to slide in...

^ Uhm... 20-50 would be way too thick, especially for a new motor. Pressure is resistance to flow, you don't want High pressure, just appropriate pressure. And you should definitely wait more then 1000 miles to break in!!! I'd wait til at least 3k miles, but I still don't think the engine is...

Made some progress today, installed the water bypass pipe, after doing a ghetto polish (80 grit only, looks a hell of alot better then the black grime and corrosion! I kinda like the brushed look, it's not a very noticeable part) Tried to install the J Tube, but right as i was thinking "89...

Yes, those look exactly like my ARP Rod bolts. If you can see the other side of the rod, the Bolt end, it will have ARP engraved on it Here are some pics from my build, looks the same as yours http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=389861&postcount=102

LOL right before i saw that post i flipped to pic 15 for the closeup, and realised that

Look at picture 4

lol! It looks like there might be a mm of clearance. And what about that gas filler... at the bottom of the car? Don't think thats functional lol, does he have one of those Blow off whistles too? :biglaugh:

If i had to take a guess on the Dimmer, I'd say the gauge can either use the stock dim settings, or you can override it and set your own. My head unit has brightness settings, and factory dimmer settings

Wow!! Looking fantastic! Thats a very interesting cooling setup you have there...