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I was installing my LC-1 and intend on using one of the analog outputs to feed the tccs the NB signal. Innovative reccomends using a circuit fused with a min of 5 amps. Does anyone know the amperage draw on the factory O2 heater? B and B1 on the ecu is fused at 15amps (efi fuse) - so I didn't...

I also went with Rich and zero complaints. Besides, iirc he's in your neck of the woods anyway.

NP - I had to do the same thing w/ my Koni's after switching back from a set of JIC c/o's. If I was to do it again, I would go with Bilstiens, as getting the adjustments accurate on the Koni's without a shock dyno is impossible. Good luck with the sub-frame search - thats going to be quite the...

John - Don't forget that each different piston manufacture has different dish volumes as well as crown heights - which will have an effect on HG choice. Valve type will also play a part - Ferrea uses a dished face vs OE Toyota's flat-face (which will have a very obvious impact on CC volume), no...

Geez - those are for the tops. He did the right thing to the kyb's

7m - so I don't have the foggyest idea... I didn't make the name connection....duh

you need to pull the mounting perches off the stock shocks and then put them on the koni's That will help you out with the springs

on the back of the block, under the exhaust manifold, there is a 3/8bspt plug that is in a water jacket. get a 3/8bspt > 1/8npt adapter (most senders are 1/8npt), drop it an you should be fine. you'll probably have to go to an actual hose shop to find that fitting.

ft-lbs

What I did was: 1. acquire the biggest chain wrench I could find. 2. longest breaker bar I had 3. added a 3ft cheater to each 4. wedged a piece of 2x4 between the crank and block (incase I slipped) 5. grabbed my strongest brother 6. cussed and pulled in opposite directions until it broke loose...

True, I see your point. I was thinking more of the carbon build-up with petrol in those areas (after 30-40k mi with a less than ideal tune) and then cranking up the boost on a less than perfect tune (or running lean at partial boost, a la lex mod) and then having a heated area the would lead to...

TMI! lol

But IJ, that was a conscious decision that you made based on specific criteria. You knew why you made that choice. I don't how well that applies across the board :) I think the creation of hot spots and turbulance by the gap created between an 86mm gasket and an 83.5-84mm bore would eventually...

That will work fine (cig lighter). You could always find a nice spot on the block for a ground too. would look better than having a rats nest of wires hanging around your battery (besides, that is where the senders are anyway)

I was begin sarcastic. That seems to be the mentality around here sometimes (not a shot at you). There are a lot of factors in figuring out the correct HG (I did not want to get into dynamic comp - there is a lot more involved in that - way beyond what you are asking). Do the measurements that...

The best way is to: measure piston deck height head thickness (or CC the head) measure piston dish volume engine bore and use a handy online calc to figure out your desired comp ratio w/ HG thickness and bore as your variable. (Keith Black has a good calc, as well as numerous posts here about...

I don't know about these gauges (but I would assume its similar), but a good ground is crucial to accurate readings. VDO (for instance) recommends a min of 14ga ground to the engine block to have accurate readings. I can confirm that using a body ground with a 16ga ground did not provide a good...

I have the correct parts (and p/n's) I was looking at the wrong diagram when doing the testing (ge and gte use different p/n's). I do have a brand new VSV that is the correct one for the gte which I am using.

Then don't eat at McDonalds. That's gross :)