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Well I was thinking what if you put the catch can on the side of the inside fenderwell below the stock air filter? Its farther down so it catches more oil due to gravity and theres less lines over the place and you wouldnt need to change to the NA PCV lines Its also in front of the engine so...

When that light comes on I say ut oh the white house is back...cause it kinda looks like some old government building

yea i didnt get beat he just kept up I think if we lined up i think i would be able to tell better

why do you guys always run the lines all over the place for the catch can. I think the less lines the better

Yea ive had it out a couple of times

im still on the original one with 150000 miles

Im thinking about making a catch can and then putting a check valve between the throttle body and the pcv pipes. THe check valve will allow vacume while no boost and then when I do boost the check valve will close and not pressurize the pcv and the turbo will be pulling a vacume on the pcv system

I got my new TPS and while I had it out I polished the inside of the throttle body, honed and polished the inside of the 3000 Pipe and took off the snorkel on the stock air box. I was on the highway and I noticed that i had about a 1/2psi more boost and the car is now running better and no idle...

Yea ive already made the lower IC pipe with some galvanized electrical conduit. We torqued the arp studs to 82lbs originally but they came loose or stretched and I had not retorqued them. I heard that its recommended that you retorque the studs after a few heat cycles but I thought that was...

Well ive drove it for the pass 2 days and its actually been fine so I guess the ECU had to adapt to the new TPS or something since who knows how long the old had been bad

I havent checked but its running good.

no ideas?

Im gonna make my own K&N Adapter then im gonna get an xtreme Air flow top cone filter

Today when I was replacing the TPS, I polished out the throttle body, bypassed the coolant hose for the throttle body heater and I honed out the 3000 pipe and polished as much of it as I could, hoping that would help my air flow some, actually the 3000 pipe was very bad inside I recommend...

I was getting a code 51, the idle was at like 1500 and when cruzing it would idle at like 2000-2500. When I would get on it kinda hard then push in the clutch it would die. Well I checked the TPS, Bad New one came today I put it on and reset the ECU Idle is where it should be when I was...

Made it run lol. I bought it with a blown engine 4 cylinders full of water and no 6 rod bearing was shot, cylinders rust pitted very badly, rings gummed up so bad they had no tension. Rotted hoses and IC pipes. Blown turbo. Well its running and its a nice clean car now that I put some elbow...

So far ive spent about $1250 on my car in about 4 months but thats including the full rebuild I did on the engine but not the price of the car.

mmmk. Well got the clutch master cylinder rebuilt and I hope no more leaks. I also did the fog light rewire while I was in there.

worn out parts like what? my clutch? Dang I now have to rebuild my clutch master cylinder, it was completely empty and its all leaked inside. Im going to get a rebuild kit today...

I have the base timing set to 15 degrees advanced and im not detonating. I read that a bad TPS can make it feel like a boost leak too. Well my TPS is bad and ive got one on order should be here tomorrow (they ordered the wrong one the first time) I guess a bad TPS would cause the ECU not to know...