No thermostat was just a temporary fix to keep from overheating and get it home. If you've got the thermostat, go ahead and put it in.
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Damn, should have just removed the thermostat to give continual flow. Do the above mentioned, and if no bhg, tow or remove the thermostat! Quit trying to warp your head and crack the block! Keep us posted.
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Yep, they should be in there, but if not... Intake side clearance is between .006-.010, & .008-.012 on the exhaust side.
And oil works good. I'm going to pressure wash mine, along with my oil pan this weekend. Maybe helicoil the head too.
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Nope, not at all. But you are going to want to measure the clearance between the removable shims on top of the buckets and the cam, once the cam is back in. There are certain clearances they have to be within, and it's different for intake side and exhaust side.
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Those ones look better. You can push harder with those. I used the same thing to clean the block. Cleaned up like a dream with carb cleaner and the wire.
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That one might work alright, it will get down into the head good. I actually have a shorter cup shaped one. My fear for that specific one is the longer bristles may be more flimsy and not allow you to use much pressure before bowing out. I'll take a pic tomorrow of mine. Oh, and no problem at...
If the thermostat is stuck closed, might as well just quickly take off the water neck and remove the thermostat all together until you can put the new one in. 30 miles both ways can do a number on an engine/head with no coolant.
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Clean the valve itself too. The flat end, the stem and the 45° angle as well. The exhaust side will be the dirtiest and have the most baked on shit, but persevere through it and make em pretty. Then also clean the seating surface on the head with it too. Then lube and replace the seals, lube the...
Oh, it's super cheap man. The tool was like 5 bucks at Autozone, they have the valve lapping compound there too. You probably won't spend more then $15. Some shops charge $400+ to lap them, get a good feeling when it's done, which took me about 12 hours to do all 24... Lol.
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I used wire brush drill attachment to clean off the valves, the cone shaped ones work best. It's time consuming, but clean up those valves. Do you plan on lapping them as well? You should while you got em out... It was a pain in the ass, but makes for better compression and seal.
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You should be able to reuse your retainers granted they are in good shape, I'm reusing mine. Just the seals, and get the ones with the compression spring around the top, that provides a greater seal.
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Here is the link to the one showing how to install the new valve guide seals:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Jm0-HQFvI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Hope that helps ya.
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Lol, awesome. Yeah man, the retainer clips come off easy. Then out comes the valve, spring, and retainers. I took the old ones out with needle nose pliers, then used a socket to hold the new ones while I applied equal downward pressure until they seated. Just go back when you are done to make...
You should check out my rebuild page. The first page has links to my videos showing how to remove valves and seals and how to place new seals in. It's not too hard to do, just want to make sure it's not crooked.
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Yeah, my friend knows this Asian dude named Noe. Supposedly he's one of the best guys to tune Apexi/etc. That's who I'm going to use as soon I'm done with the rebuild on my 90 and 91. How often are you back in town?
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Welcome to the forum! I'm in Nampa, nice to meet another local owner! You must have found that out of state... I've never seen it here before. Looks beautiful!
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