Depends on the type of head gasket you want to use. If it's metal then you want mill the head. If composite or what not then shouldn't matter I've heard. I've milled mine and going with a metal HKS.
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Yeah, if you can't shuffle them around to get the numbers right, you can get them at the dealership. Ours charges $12 each... Gets spendy if they all need replaced. Luckily I have an extra head and 24 extra shims :) but I still have one side of the head to do...
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You do need to check the clearance and make sure they match the numbers I posted earlier. Otherwise compression will not be good. Trust me, it's worth it.
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Oh, and on the block, you can push as hard as you want to clean it real good. I used carb cleaner and the cup brush on the block.
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You can run it lightly and not risk damaging it. You just don't want a lot of pressure against the aluminum with hard/firm bristles.
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Remember that one wire attachment you showed a pic of that was longer and cone shaped? That would work perfect for getting down inside that valve seat area. Or a small wire brush. I'm going to blueprint my head with a dremel to remove the unnecessary flaky casting, then power wash it off. For...
Those look good. You don't want shiny, that's where it's buffed itself. That whole contact surface needs to be that rough grey color. Good job so far man.
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You want to make sure you get all that greasy grime off the 45° valve seat on both the head and valves before lapping. That way a good mating surface can be cut with the compound.
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Depends on the head gasket you want to use. You should use a good quality metal head gasket, but that requires the block decked and the head milled to a mirror like finish. If you are going the cheap and inevitable failure/temporary fix method, get paper or graphite gasket. My machine work ran...
That brush won't hurt the valves. But, you got the process right. Another way to categorize the valves is using a Sharpie, and writing "I1" for intake one, "e2" for exhaust two etc.
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