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I did. I actually watched all those videos. Im not trying to go high boost right now just driveability tuning. All the stuff he goes over in that video has been done. It can move and drive as long as its under 50% throttle. I haven't gotten more the 2psi of boost before I back off cause its not...

I syncd timing and all the stuff that driftmotion told me to do before moving on. Could you enlighten me on whats left

yes even with knock control off its still there. I checked plugs and wires they seem good. Im trying to get it tuned for the first time so I set up all the sensors that needed to be. The worked good prior to ecu installation. I even tried shortening the sparkplug gap and problem is still there.

nobody has any ideas on this. All the maos people have loaded on here are v1 maps that I cant see. or someone that knows what kind of numbers I should see from the knock sensors to see if ones fubared

I have a built 7mgte with forged internals. I am having issue with mid load tuning. For somereason I cant seem to get it to accel smooth. seems like its mis firing or something. I got it to idle and start pretty decent. I got the frequency for the pistons set. Heres what I have. Knock Frequency...

that peak torque was when the turbo hit full boost right before it dropped off

I get free dyno time at school so I got the new engine broken in and a couple of dyno pulls done. Turbo spike at 14 for less then a second then fall on its face back to 9 psi. I hit 293whp and 373wtq. The stock turbo definatly cant hold on with the current mods. Heres a video...

Keep in mind that is a race engine setup

I took a high performance class in college. If you building a race engine they say you want .001 clearance per 1 inch of diameter. now running on the street you adjust some but that a good starting. Ive confirmed this with a couple other builders. example 2" diameter you want .002 oil clearance

a fubared output shaft. for some reasond it was just 3rd. and all gears. just the right load on it I guess

throwout typically whines al the time but not always. that would be ideal. hope its that and not internal. mine did this and only wined when clytch was engaged because of the way the axial load was on it

if its in every gear then chances are its either input shaft or gear or a countershaft bearing

im now at about 450 miles on this engine. Some videos not much. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=838524969507701&l=5681870986729341813 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=838526712840860&l=349010148583765564

Its been awhile sense ive updated so some updates. I had to move again for the start of school back in sep. So I towed the car to Pa from Michigan and then started to diagnose what my idle problem was. I swapped in some fidenza cam gears and try to get them set right but nothing would go to...

ive seen all your videos. Glad to see you guys on the forum

Ill try that XMX you have any luck on your end?

I don't know if he did but I degreed mine with a degree wheel and it still wouldn't idle with the stock computer would it work better to retard one and advance the other to get rid of som overlap?

yeah he said he had adjustable and stock computer

I know ppl have ran them so what did they do to get them to work? I have seen ppl adjusting the cams to get them to run. Should you advance one and reatard the other or what? I tried degreeing them and still didn't have anyluck