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You feed the MAFT flow output signal into your SAFC and then into the ECU. You don't touch anything between the MAFT and the flow meter.

Just like anything in life, if you do a crappy job installing electric fans, you'll get crappy results, and vice versa. I went electric after the fan clutch exploded taking out my radiator, shroud and fan, hoses, water pump, and gashing the hood. Haven't had a single problem with the...

Disconnect the cold start injector wire clip and see if it makes any difference. If it doesn't, then it's probably at fault. If it takes even longer to start, than we know it's at least working somewhat. My car starts immediately with it working, and takes about 7 cranks when cold to catch...

Sure, since it collects oil. How much it collects depends on how well it works, and how well your engine is sealing. Most original equipment oil separators work just like a catch can, but return the oil back to the crankcase via a drain hose, as no customer would ever want to maintain it.

The head gasket itself was never the problem. It's the tension of the head bolts that's the culprit.

2"-3" size will work.

The TPS will not cause your car to not start, no matter how messed up it is. And if the ECU is smart enough to give you error codes, the chances of it being bad are almost nil. The ECU never seems to goes bad anyway, it's all the fried wires from the sensors that cause the problems.

With the engine running, what is the voltage at the alternator output terminal? What is it at the battery terminals?

It gets plenty hot under the hood, no matter how you shield things, since all the "cool air" comes through the radiator first and is no longer all that cool. It will usually sit around 50-60 Celsius under the hood, unless you're doing some very easy highway driving, at minimal throttle. A...

The gasket has a tab at the top, and that goes to the rear of the engine: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_56.html http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/gaskets/graphics/exhausthead_l.jpg

Even a small light bulb will kill the healthiest of batteries if you let it sit for a dozen or so hours. I think your problem was just the light. Unfortunately once you fully discharge a battery like you did, it's only about 70% as strong as it used to be. Expect for it to not last all that...

The shorter and thicker the paper clip, the less it will heat up. Even on my dead stock fuel system, a wimpy paper clip will get pretty hot. A thicker one won't. The whirring under the hood is the pressure regulator oscillating and is normal.

The EGR should stay closed until the coolant warms up to 135 F, so if yours is stock it's probably not it, unless it's stuck open or something. When you had a BHG, the milky oil coming out of the air filter was due to the crankcase breather venting, as you already observe. I can't think...

Last time I did this, I got pissed off and just removed the Idle Control Solenoid. But using a short replacement screwdriver bit (the ones that come in all the cheap ass 2000+ piece sets) and a tiny wrench should work as well. Until you drop it that is, so you may want to put a glob of chewing...

Route the hose so it goes directly into the heater control valve (bell shaped thing), bypassing the electronic solenoid. diagram: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/install/graphics/vacuum_4h.gif Disconnect the end of the 88690D hose from the solenoid 88691B and plug it into the check valve...

Picture that was meant to go with the main post, showing plugged radiators (behind the A/C core, out of view). Courtesy of Reg's site.

Does the temperature come up slowly, or just spike up? You sure you have the sensors connected properly (lots of junk in the area). If all else fails, time to pull out the sensor and test per TSRM.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_094.html http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/d/D_01.html http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/d/D_05.html Looking at that, you can tell it's the E2-THA terminals, and the wire colors are brown and light-green.

The stock brakes are really good, if in proper working condition. If they haven't been overhauled in recent years, don't expect much out of them. Especially the slider pins are prone to seizing, leaving you with crappy braking. A complete overhaul and brake fluid change will make a night and day...

I'll sell you one with 514 000 km on the odometer. Oh wait, the car is still running, never mind. :love: