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I'm starting to compile info & specs on the radiator options now. If it's anything like my previous compilations, I probably won't touch this for another 5 years... Stock: $425, 2-row?, 1.15" core, ?? fpi CSF OEM: $185, 2-row, 1.3" core, ?? fpi *AT CSF Race: $340 (discontinued), 2-row, 2"...

Best LSD article yet (by MotoIQ -- where Dave Coleman ended up): http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/tabid/59/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/1322/Project-NSX-Part-2-Tuning-a-Limited-Slip-Differential.aspx

RS and MZ are pretty much like you said -- RS for street, MZ for aggressive track. The difference is going to be in the severity of the clutch engagement. With an MZ, I wouldn't be surprised if you had some rear end chatter/tire scrub when pulling into and backing out of tight parking spots...

Well done! What are the specs again?

There are coolant hoses going to/from the turbo in that area. There is also a metal coolant pipe that mounts there.

I see what, $30 worth of chemicals there? And you plan to keep going rather than just buy a new MHG?

Very nice Matt, is there a writeup on that somewhere? (mods: I tried searching but HID is too long, too short, or too common)

First, are you sure you need a MHG? Don't get me wrong, its great insurance, but it's going to cost you to properly put one in. That brings me to point 2: If you are going to put in a MHG, you're going to need to pull the engine out, tear it down, and have it machined (block and head) all...

A new dipstick is all of $12 from Champion...

To the OP: Since you mentioned your engine build is recent, that raises my suspicions more than normal... I'd start with a compression test as when an engine build goes wrong, you usually find out pretty quick. If compression comes back OK, then I'd look more into the PCV system. And I'd...

From that angle, all I can see is:

Hold the soda in your right hand, shift with the bottom of the cup, steer with the left.

Stiffening your shocks won't decrease body roll -- it just slows it (making it *feel* like there is less). Ideally you should adjust your shocks so that they are matched to your springs. I do this by starting off on the softest setting, and driving quickly over a bump near my house (not a...

If you have access to a press, a scale (ruler), a center punch, and a drill you can modify the stock rear swaybar to be ~14% stiffer than stock as I've discussed here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1380256&postcount=196 If you only wanted to buy only the rear swaybar, I'd...

Alright, here's what I have for now: Front (brand) (percent stiffer than 87-88T stock bar) Addco: ??? Cusco: 20% est ST: 10% est Stock 91-92: ??? Tanabe: 22% est, 16% actual Whiteline non-adjustable: 45% est, 50% advertised Whiteline Soft: 45% est, 51% actual Whiteline Med: 70% est...

I'm going to be updating my calculated chart to hopefully fill in some of the gaps until Wiisass can get around to testing all of the options. For now, does anyone have any information on Addco MK3 swaybars. They've been discontinued for a over a decade (presumably because of the rear endlink...

To oversimplify, there are two approaches: Stiff spring, soft bar Soft spring, stiff bar Your eibachs would fall into the soft category imo (roughly equivalent to 500/200# linear springs). That would make the front just a little stiffer than stock, and the rear about the same (a little...

Tokico Blue = Tokico HP which is not compatible with TEMS. Tokico Illuminas are, but cost about double. You don't need them, people have been running ST sway bars long before BIc was around. 89+ cars are more likely to want to upgrade since they used plastic rear end links. Either way, its...

https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=326_79_14_34_184&products_id=1694

The front spring rates are the same for all years (461lb/in) for a given model (NA/Turbo have different part numbers, but the springs are essentially identical). Only the rears became ~16% stiffer in 1989.