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you know who the evil lady is right? its MARTHA STEWART!! you never see her face, but every time she is on screen, she is in the kitchen cooking something.

from www.urbandictionary.com whip n. When the steering wheel was first put into use in automobiles, it was called the whip. The whip is what you used to control the horses on a stagecoach, hence the analogy. Many years later, various hip hop artists noticed that the Mercedes-Benz logo...

did you not notice these 2 pictures are identicle. its the same pic. whats up with that?

why do we need to keep the relay? according to the tsrm diagrams, it does nothing but switch the resistor on and off. if we get rid of resistor, we no need relay. i just may keep the relay for other reasons/uses but i havent decided on that yet.:evil2: edit: yeay... post # 69 ...:joshers:

actually the relay switches between 12v and <12v (through the resistor) depending on how much voltage the ecu thinks the fuel pump should be getting. its never actually "open". and it does switch when youre driving, not just when you crank.

oh, i forgot the relay was right next to the resistor.:icon_roll so yeah easy to do. but it might be possible that the ecu will show an error code if the relay is removed. anyone know for sure?

just bypass the fuel pump solenoid resistor. it sits on the pass side strut tower. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_114.html or you can get rid of it all and bypass the whole thing, +B to FP. you might get an error code if you do that though. im not sure.

iirc, a relay will take about 25-50 ms to close. i personally am not worried about that short amount of time but if you do this and its easy to do and reach then please let us all know as it would be a less complex system, and im all for removing complexity. btw. lots of walbro questions...

as far as i know, the walbro was not meant to be run on less than 12v. the constant 12v mod is very quick and easy. give it a shot and see if it solves your problem.

ok you are already running the walbro so hopefully you are already running the 12v constant mod. so yeah, if you want to rewire with bigger guage wire do what justin says. use the old power wire to switch the relay but make sure you put a fuse on the new power wire near the batt. i bought...

you want to send more than 12 volts? or are you talking about the constant 12v mod?

the mkiii doesnt look like a jellybean so it cant possibly be a supra.

:3d_frown: the two kits you posted are not even close to being the same. the blue car has a extreem dimentions kit all around. as i understand it, the extreem dimentions kit is of very low quality and personally i think it looks like ass. the silver car with black hood has a modified do-luck...

12 - 75 preferably with a heartbeat, but thats not mandatory.

six

well yeah, you are right. it looks like its time for me to read corky bell.:icon_wink however, that doesnt mean this info is completely useless. we know that the compression ratios are nearly the same (mk3 8.4:1 vs. mk4 8.5:1) and we know that the mk4 head flows better than the mk3 head...

the mkiv guys have a chart over on sf of octane/safe boost. their concensus was 91 pump octane was good for about 14psi. thats with stock timing on a 2JZ but should be similar if not the same for a 7M. change the timing and you can run higher boost. sf is down right now but i will steal...

um... price? :dunno:

try http://www.paintscratch.com/

summit sells a kit.