i think im going to just get a whole new core.. the long tube on the drivers side is all f#$% up and i gotta have heat for the winter...lol unless you got one you wanna get rid of. i have some ac parts and an electric fan lol..
yeah i had that much figured out but thats the way the fan was wired up when i got it back from the shop and i had never thought to look to see which way it was flowing. lol im glad thats all it was though. now im in the process of fixing the heater core... yipeee lol
well after changing the radiator it still started heating up.... so i checked a few things and come to find out the electric fan was pushing instead of pulling...(i didnt do this lol) so after lookin at it for a few hrs i decided to remove the fan and replace it with 2 more. so now i have 2 14...
my turbo has less than 200 miles on it and i checked it today and its still solid no leaks and no smoking. once i get some other things done tomorrow i will let you guys know what happens.
i just got another radiator yesterday so i will be changing it out today and i will post the results.. i took it back to the shop and had them run the compression and it was between 150 and 160 on all cyl. so im guessing this is the last thing it could be.. i'll let you guys know later
no the pistons and rings were never removed he told me the block only had 60 k on it my bro has a rad he will sell me for 75 bux so i guess i will change that too. and do a block test and see what happens.
well i drove it tonight for about 1hr and it was fine never got any where near hot.... alos the whole bottom end was not built at the shop its a stock bottom end. im going to take it to harry on monday and he's gonna check it out and see what he can find out.
ok so i ran a compression test first test went as follows
cyl.1 131
cyl.2 135
cyl.3 126
cyl.4 115
cyl.5 135
cyl.6 135
so i called the guy who did the engine work he said to add a cap of oil to each cyl. and try it again so i did and here are the results.
cyl.1 161
cyl.2 161
cyl.3 156...
well the radiator had some nasty crap in it from before when the engine was all to hell so thats a possibilty but he said he flushed the radiator out so i dont know for sure..
im gonna be really pissed off if i have to put my car back in the shop for another friggin who knows how long... hell the car overheated the day i picked it up and drove it home...
harry at phoenix motorsports did the build i know the head was totally redone and im not sure about the block im pretty sure he had it surfaced too at least i would think... im not sure what the ra was. the engine might have 200 miles on it since rebuild at the most.. and i have a compression...
ok so i just got my car back from the shop after a long 6 months i had it rebuilt cometic hg arps 3 angle valve job new valve stem seals. new water pump and thermostat no egr valve 1 14 in. electric fan and the 2 small ac fans running also. has a ct26 60 trim running only 5psi stg 2 clutch, all...
ok i just got home from a little crusin and my car started getting hot after about 30 min. so i pulled over and let it cool down then i shut it off hung out for about 30 more min. and started to leave but when i tried to start the car it would start sputter and shut off????? wtf now so i...
so then is this natural to happen without the egr system? i actually did read this but i still wanted to ask... so will it do this until i get the egr put back on it?
good i'll check it out.. my check engine light came on today its throwing the egr code??? while i was driving today i down shifted going up a hill and noticed my temp jumped up a little but then came down...???? wtf?? and then i went to go up this driveway that was kinda steep, its only about...
mine was a jdm engine so it didnt have egr.... so i guess unless i have a jdm ecu then it would be a good idea to put it back huh?....how do i tell if the ecu i have is jdm???
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