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I like my Comp 6765, but some people don't like comps. Works for me, though!

You can make the SSQV less irritating by removing the insert. It loses the high-pitched component and makes it tolerable imo. Still loud, but not bad loud.

The turbos are cheap quality, although some have had luck. The intercoolers don't fit very well (in my opinion) but again, they're functional if you have none or a broken one. Were it me, I'd be OK with the IC kit, but not the turbo. Too much inconsistency in their quality.

I just grabbed some heater hose from the parts store and forced it on (5/8" hose is slightly too small, but seals great with some install effort) It's OK if the hose kinks because you don't want full flow anyways.

The metal pipes need to stay so your engine has coolant flow through it, as do all the fittings they plug into. The only thing you need bypass is the heater core hookups. I see two options based on the way the factory heater system works. 1- Loop the circuit from banjo bolt fitting to return...

You need an LSD additive in your differential to avoid chattering the clutch plates. When severe, it can act similar to what your diff sounds like it's doing. iirc, Ford additive is highly thought-of, whereas I have always used Kendall (since it's what we have at work) without issue.

I'd take the help and get the engine installed, but take the turbo off beforehand to remove the temptation of starting it with a questionable part installed. Stock turbos aren't hard to install on-car at all (IMO). Pretty sure Emilio got it down to 45 minutes or so when they were chasing his...

Borrowed a spare pulley from Emilio and put it back together all temporary-like last night. Spun the oil pump beforehand to prime the oil system, what do ya know- it fired right up. Lucky me it still runs. They still may have hit, but I'll know more once I get it reassembled properly and run...

Ya, there's a couple local guys who says it the emm kay way. It's mildly grating, but whatevs. Better than Probe or Thunderbird...I guess My, my this thread has drifted off course. heh

Depends on how you pronounce MK3. People like me prefer saying "Mark 3" Whereas people like Colton prefer to say it phonetically, "Emm Kay 3". So in truth, both are proper depending on how you like to say it! I also just like to call it 3rd gen, MA70, or call it by the year. On-topic, I...

Nah, I have a spanner wrench to use that holds the pulley nicely. It's the one we use at the dealership, but it's possible that the stress riser was caused by it, seeing as it's not the exact Toyota SST. Dunno, but I'm not finding much to replace it aside from another factory part. What are...

Update time! Went to Powercruise #4 at BIR raceway this last weekend and had a blast! Car ran great and didn't have any serious issues! Only failures suffered were 2 melted a breather plug and dropped a transmission drain plug (not sure how, never pulled it out, but whatevs). Drove the crap out...

I like the color of the Z, especially driving by it! Not sure what to say on the Supra, though. You seem to enjoy it greatly when it runs, but the last couple years have just been bad news for that car. I think having Quality build it was the right choice, and perhaps the bearing failure was...

As has been said before, it depends a lot on your power curve. My power band is relatively high, but it still drops off. While I will happily rev the engine to 7500rpm, it isn't making power up there. I usually shift at 6700-7000 so I don't drop out of boost, as well as having my power and...

Simple answer: no. Slightly explained: Newer cars have the ability to 'reflash' their ECUs to accommodate a new calibration/tune, where no Supra ever came with that ability. There are only 2 ways to tune a mk3. One is to install a piggyback like an safc/apexi/etc and have a professional tune...

Yup, I'm sure there are other ways, but to use the factory one I haven't found an adapter. Steel line was the best, easiest option since I already had the parts. Alternatively, having a good amount of braided rubber line seems to help- the hose expands and contracts, forming a quasi-damper...

I ran into an issue not unlike this- for mine it turned out to be fuel pressure pulsation. Single 1020 pump without a pulsation damper = lean midrange depending on fuel pressure and flow requirements. I put a factory pulsation damper onto the feed for the rail and it was gone! (at least it was...

I rebuilt the transmission to factory specs while adding the MC 1-2 shift fork and 1st gear thrust washer. As for that transmission, I just cracked the synchronizer sleeve (new factory part) on the dyno. There aren't any upgrade parts that I know of for that particular part of the transmission...

Yep, added that stuff to the list, but no subframe bushings or reinforcements yet (iirc, 90+ got the better rear subframes)

I know, right? The car is fun, but it's gotten a little out of hand. I'm taking steps to bring it back just a little closer to what I had initially intended for it to be. I'm trying very hard to do the whole 'content' thing. After seeing plenty of car guys around me get a car, go big right...