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Red = Concentrate Pink = Premixed

No, vacuum lowers the fuel pressure and boost raises it.

Sounds like they gave you a MKIV W58 which has an extension linkage for the shifter.

My father has done the same on just about every vehicle I've owned. Just adjust the pads via the screw-spreader on the bottom of the hub. The rotors should have a rubber cover over the adjustment hole so you can get them fine tune after getting them close with the rotor off.

Did you mix Toyota red with water? Red is concentrate while pink is pre-mixed.

Your clutch disk should have the majority exposed side of the springs facing the transmission (assuming you have a sprung disk).

http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/en/pages/technical/a80tsrm.htm

I am 99% finished with the swap and I've come across a few items that no one else has ever mentioned before; 1) When swapping a front sump for a rear sump oil pan, the turbo drain mount piece will not be in the same location. You will need to shorten the rear drain hose and find 7/8" oil line...

That is nothing but back tracking to the worst setup possible i.e. most inferior electronics plus downgrading to a 2JZ-GE head. Stick with the 2JZ-GTE and run it off the 2JZ-GTE electronics. Forget using the crappy 7M ECU with a piggyback and frankenstein block setup.

Gravity mounted in the glovebox.

Did you make any changes to or check your factory PCV system? 7M's love to blow oil out everywhere with no crankcase vacuum.

If you hot tank the block, you'll need to replace all your freeze plugs and also your oil jackshaft bearings afterwards.

A better way of using JB weld than how you discribed is to drill the hole bigger, fill the hole, drill it, and then tap it. The only problem is that it's usuable temperature ceiling is around 400-500*F and the more heat you apply to it makes it overcure and peel off. I would just tap a larger...

Oh man, my dream is to 1JZ swap a MK2, 2JZ swap a MKIII, and/or just own a MKIV TT. PM'ing you about the partout.

Yes. I'll be dropping mine in hopefully late this weekend assuming all my parts arrive. I was under the impression it was just "assisting" your ABS lines closer to the firewall.

Parallel will only make him feel faster once full boost hits. Sequential is actually physically faster due to more linear power.

^ What he said. Coolant in your oil doesn't play nice with your main and rod bearings.

Dr. Tweak charging more to fix plugs/wiring is not a bad thing if you enjoy knowing your harness will be just as good as the day it was made by Toyota. I for one, sent him my harness and wasn't bothered by the extra cost of replacing/repairing the majority of plugs because I would rather have a...

That appears to only fit usdm twins and is a complete downpipe i.e. front and mid pipe = aftermarket downpipe. The product I showed you has your flange and is just the front pipe that ends with a universal 3" two bolt flange that a muffler shop can complete your exhaust with.

You should have a 2JZ ignitor that connects only to the 2JZ engine harness. There's a lot more wiring on top of the obvious extending the RHD shorter harness.