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I made the brackets and hoses.. the rest was some e-bay cooler kit that Nick got.No it doesnt have thermostat but if it is needed it would be easy to add...

second that....

Oh that first pic is off the 1JZ harness... LOL.. take a pic of the entire alternator harness... I think those wires will attach to your 7M alternator wires.

And the oil cooler and relocation kit.

Here is some of the Fuel systems stuff... Dual -6 feed and -8 return. Dual Walbro's with custom hanger. Aluminum lines...

Here is the TB and the Tial BOV. We dont have the right coupler right now... :nono: Some more of the tubing and Intercooler brackets. The hole will be fixed later but its an ugly hole for now.. :sarcasm:

Here is the intercooler and plumbing. 24x12x4, 3" in 3" out. 3" plumbing...

Well I figured I would post some of the progress that we have done on my buddy's Nick car. It has been a long work in progress but its finally shaping up. I will update as we build more parts for it. Majority of the project has been fabricated from scratch. Goal is 700+WHP. We rebuild the...

If it is B+ wire it most likely goes to the starter... Its been a while since I have seen stock 7M body harness... Mine is 1/2 gone... =) If it is black wires they most likely go to the starter. I guess its short because it was cut and spliced.... there is similar gauge wires that go to the...

Its actualy 5400... http://www.titanmotorsports.com/to6tr.html

Yeah I dont care even if I have to cut and refab the entire tunel I know I will only have to do it once... 15mm is not bad Air Hammer can fix that easy. Im geting a tunel cut out of a old junk body this weakend and I will see exactly what needs to be modified.

Has any of you put it in the tunel to see how much fitment isues there might be???

Everyone is going to the 26 spline patern. All the new fords are 26... The Fords have longer spline lenght by 1/2 inch and it would accomodate dual and triple clutches easyer. (2.12 in the GM and 2.60 in the Ford, 2.75 in the Toyota.) The Imput shaft from bearing mounting surface is 6.49 in the...

I tought about geting the W58, T5 addapter deal going but by the time is all set and done you have a mess that would cost close to $600 which is what the bell housing is costing me. and it would be much cleaner stronger install. Check out these bearings they mount on the t56 GM no...

I have been looking for a solution to the R154 breaking all the time even with the upgraded parts. I dont want to spend 1-2k on a junk v160 that would need 2k in rebuilding or 3-4k on used unit that may need synchros in the future or 5-6k on a new one. I would like something that I can invest...

Is it true that the Pump would not be able to handle 8K+ RPM??? Do we need anything special as far as the pump goes.

Mine is a blast to drive but its geting old cause It wont stay on the road for more than two weeks at a time... Its either trans or diff every time... LOL. 5 broken ones so far and its only been ~1000 milles.

If I was you i would wait and get used box that someone upgraded for fraction of the cost. Unless you have 1600cc you dont need the peak and hold. The ignition outputs can be modified and on the old EMS1 so you do get to remove the igniter if you so wish. Obviously the procesing speed the USB...

There are a lot of people on here that have done the swap. The information is spread out and incomplete. I DONT want this to turn into pissing match of TH350 vs R154 vs A340... I would like to hear from few people that have done the swap.... How much did it cost you? What adapter did you...

Hey, Shawn... Can you give us some insight on your setup... Engine and driveline.