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AJ: Quiet ;) (Not like I'd know, mine needs a bit of "adjusting") Sounds to me like a pulley locked up, and tossed the belt(s). Good luck, though, and hopefully that's all it is.

Is this a turbo car? If so, you will get better results in the 7M-GTE Tech section...

Cool, thanks IJ

Interesting. Where is the number stamped on the head? I have one in the shop that I know is 89+ by how the divider is in the runners, but would like to know more about it. There was still a 7m in 93? I thought that was the first year for the 2jz series.

IJ: What is that head from that you're showing in post #18? That seems like yet another different cut, with some pretty nice polishing work.

Nick: The head in the top pic doesn't quite look like a stock 7m head, either. Seems to have had quite a bit of work done to it as well? Maybe a difference between early and later model heads? Edit: Here's a decent pic of a stock, pre89 combustion chamber: There's a bit of a...

No, the mkii gear won't work. It's too small. You should be able to get another gear from the dealer, if you need it. You shouldn't have to drain the fluid, although it might drip or dribble a bit. Pull the speed sensor, and the gear is clipped on the end. I'd suspect the cable, first.

I use this tool for most ohc applications: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch91400.html Not the easiest to use, but not the hardest, either. It would probably cost the same to have the machine shop do it for you...

There's a couple ways to change the valve seals without removing the head, if you search around a bit. As for brands, Felpro has good parts, at a reasonable price. Iiirc, all their valve seals are made out of viton now, as well. Edit: I have seen a thread or two with fitment issues on cam...

I agree with the others that the head gasket is a problem for you, but it is quite possible that you have(or will have) bottom end problems as well. I'd pull the motor, have everything checked by a competent machine shop, and freshen it up. I'd have the short block and head built separately...

Basically, it's gonna be a pain in the ass. It would be impossible to get the crank without pulling the motor out of the car, though. Mark which way the crank went so the pistons line up?? There's a lot of tech. to putting a bottom end together, so be sure you have some experienced help...

hunh. I won't give you the exact page for the temp. sensor, but I'll put you in the right section. Most of the engine management stuff is here: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=1

Did you change the t.stat as well? If not, you might start there. Cut the little jiggle valve out of it, as well, and make sure the hole is in the 12 o'clock position.

Since you said it was brown, I'd lean more toward the dirt theory as well. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen it, either. I always find dirt, leaves, papers, etc., caught in blower motors when faced with a complaint like this. Hope you figure it out.

I recently acquired an 89 Ford TurboCoupe. Same 5 spd. as the Mustang, 2.3 turbo 4cyl., 9" disk brake rear end. I'll have about $400 in it when the paper work is done, and I'll do a little tweaking on it for shits and giggles. Still, my thoughts on Ford are in my avatar...

You did this with the car hot, I'll assume? Lucky for you, the radiator was low, so you didn't blow hot coolant all over yourself. Try filling the radiator(when its cold), and see if it settles your temp. gauge. You might wanna check your oil, to, and see what color it is...

91 is an auto, and the 87 a manual?

About right. Mine weighs 3400 with 3/8 tank of gas, according to the CAT scales at a local truck stop. I wouldn't be surprised if a scrap yard scale is a little light...

Take the harness and injectors off the 87 motor, put them on the 91 motor, and use the 87 ecu. Not sure what else is different between the two motors. A car lot I used to work for loved junk yard motors. I learned real quick to set the motors side by side on the floor, and compare them...

Umm, Oil seeps through the exhaust manifold? Actually, if you have BLUE smoke on start-up, it's bad valve seals(not valve cover gaskets). OP: I've seen similar cases(with a Ford, go figure...) where the head gasket had a tiny gouge in it from a water jacket to a cylinder. It would leak...