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Obviously hes a douchebag driver because he drives an EVO. And that thing is obviously going to blow up because it's a god awful 4B11T, that obviously can't handle that much power. That's what's not to like. On another note, because I tend to stereotype as little as possible, I really hope to...

Theres a small shim on manual cars aswell.

Because I already have a powered 8 I can put right on the side of the 10s box Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

Same here. Definitely curious as to what I'll be putting down. Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

Maybe I have my filters backwards. Say there's a drop from 150hz. At 150, that's handled by the 8. As it approaches say 80 Hz, it crosses over to the tens. By 40 Hz it will be handled exclusively by the 10s. Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

Still, the F and G have different valve angles. I would have to assume they change the way the air/fuel mix tumbles, a certain way makes more power, and a different way makes it more fuel efficient. But I'm talking out of my ass here.

Personally, I'd think a CF lip would get destroyed with a quickness.. With FRP, atleast it flexes quite a lot.

Haha I'm racing the clock as well. Hopefully I'll be able to drop in my engine tomorrow.. then I'll be waiting for parts from driftmotion! Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

Lol... Kids these days :D Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

I've heard of 2Js having no oil on the thrust washer on first start up + a heavy clutch = crankwalk. Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

M is the engine code. G means it has Toyota's performance oriented valve angle with a dohc setup. E means efi Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

If you have the stock dp look at the flex section. Mine just recently cracked and I opted to get the dm 3 inch wide mouth dp Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

Honestly I'd much rather be behind halogens than hids in halogen housings. Not only do the halogens have a better pattern because they're in proper housings, but I also get to keep my high beams. Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

IJ. Greased his bushings once and never had a squeak. I forgot what grease he used though.. its all in the grease. Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound using Tapatalk. Don't buy HTC...

Red and black mean nothing. Black is just black.. that's it. Some say it's graphite impregnated, but either way, it doesn't help with the noise. HOWEVER; if you properly grease them, you will have no problems. I didn't use the grease supplied, I used Lucas Red n Tacky #2 to grease mine.. And I...

If the car is your DD and you only do a little racing, personally I would go with a decent set of shocks and springs..

I don't think I could manage ripping up a Supra, even if it is in a junkyard. I had a hard enough time sending my wrecked 88 to the scrapper... You know what I hate? HIDs in reflector housings. Pisses me off.

WOW. Never thought I'd see a sheared ARP. That makes me wonder if something is out of balance..

Perhaps it is under load when they rotate?

I had an issue with the charge pipe hitting the sway bar. Maybe I have it backwards but that's my experience. The only thing you should have to relocate is the coolant res and the oil cooler. I kept my coolant res in the factory spot using some heat to form it Sent from my terrible HTC Rezound...