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I may have more pictures hiding somewhere but there's two lol. Limequat, did you switch to stock springs all the way around or just in the front? Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

With your eibach and bilstein combo, where did you have the height adjustment? Mine is set at the highest in the front and the lowest in the rear and its rather bouncy. Im thinking I need to raise it in the rear to get more preload? Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Well, now I know that I will never be doing that "mod" haha Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

No for two reasons. Never buy anything that advertises to seal leaks, as a general rule of thumb. The second thing is unless you converted to r134 the system is still r12. No bueno. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

If you have everything you need, then its basically a simple swap. You will have the wiring, the turbo, all piping and etc. from the 89 rust free car, so just take the n/a engine out of the tired n/a and rebuild it, put a drain bung in the oil pan, get the turbo oil and mount everything up, then...

I bought a wrecked 88 supra for 300 bucks. I thought it was the stupidest thing I've ever done when I pulled the engine and there was a hole in the block.. but the damn thing scrapped for 300 bucks, plus whatever I made in selling parts, and I got a free lsd and r154 out of it. Sent from my...

I just remember reading it somewhere on the forums. And that 160k psi figure rings a bell. I wanna say the arp bolts were around 168k psi yield. In other words, get the studs haha Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Yup! I just used some atf safe softline but it would have been better to make most of it out of hardline I would imagine. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Between the rack and the res. Not the line that goes between the res and the pump, but the other fitting. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Never had one. Drove my n/a probably 15k miles with no hg problems, then put in a gte with a mhg. Ahhhhh Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Factory head bolts are actually incredibly strong, almost as strong as ARP bolts. That's really the reason I don't get why people buy ARP head bolts. I don't see a problem with 75 ft. lbs.

Doesn't the ls400 clutch spin backwards of the 7m clutch and eventually caused fan blade failure? Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Ill drive my car around quite a bit today, since I pulled the EFI fuse to crank for oil pressure after my oil and filter change. Hopefully the code 52 was from before I replaced the connectors. If not, I'm going to shop around for a good condition wiring harness, do a proper KS rewire on that...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFP_WiOUmf8 Here's the video. 5500 rpm in second is roughly 60. So thats 8 seconds 0-60, and 4k rpm in 4th is 81. So make that like 15 seconds 0-80. This is with the A/C on, but I've timed 6 before, there's definitely something wrong here haha. And.. on the...

I never thought of putting speakers there! How do they sound? Also, it's a good looking car! How much was it?

Well, I replaced the connector ends, and there's no code 52. It did seem to help turbo response, but its still slow.. cps then? Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Did you get your 550s clips wired in yet? Honestly, if I were you I would pull the harness from the ECU. it is SO much easier dealing with it all on the stand rather than in the car. Trust me on this! Also, did you use a OEM Toyota gasket for the EGR cooler? I wouldn't trust ANYTHING else back...

I think next time I come out I just need to bring my bolts that I have from my parts car lol. Basically any size you need I have.

Just ordered two new knock sensor connectors from Toyota. If this doesn't fix my code 52, I'll either end up fully rewiring it, again, or replacing one of my knock sensors. or do both.

Of course. Like I said, the bolt patterns were the same but the locations were not. I had to re drill the center ones. I don't know if from the factory they will be in the same location, but on my specific car, with the pre 89 spoiler being added by a previous owner, and NOT Toyota, the center...