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Why do you keep referring to me as a rookie? WTF? The 2JZ is cheaper and SUPERIOR. If you think that the 7M is SUPERIOR to the 2JZ then you are RETARDED

I just want you to know that my engine failed because of a THRUST BEARING which killed one of my ROD BEARINGS. It was because of the clutch being too tight IMO and not due to the oil system. I do think that there is an oil flaw in the 7M. The rate for rodknock is very high compared to other...

Figgie - I know how to check my oil - I will never get done arguing with you because you never answer the first question to begin with. If you guys would just look into going GE-T with a 2jz you would see how easy it is. You are wasting your time with the 7MGTE.

Enough of this - I have a REAL ENGINE to work on in my garage.

FIGGIE YOUR 7M DIED???? You user errorer........ Sorry guys - this isnt opinion, its fact. The 7m is more prone to oiling issues than the 2jz. Period. End of story. Duane's 7m is built. Was it not when he ran the TDO6? Isnt that the whole point of this? The rods are more stout in a 2jz...

Im not talking about Duanes supra or the capabilities of the TD06 - im talking about YOUR STOCK BLOCK 7M and what it can handle. Thats what we are comparing and talking about - dont try to change the subject.

Ignorance? What is so ignorant about what I said? Am I ignorant because I have a few hundred posts and you have over 2k posts worth of crap? Lets hear it. Be specific. Ask these q's about the 7M: Are the 7m rods better? Rod bolts stronger? Oiling system better designed? Pistons forged...

Im not assuming that the stock 7m cant take any abuse, but I sure as hell dont see you putting down 500 hp with that TD06. Maybe around 400 hp? Great. Its certainly not the 600+ hp that the 2j STOCK shortblock is capable of. My 7m was reliable too - I got 200k trouble free miles out of it...

Since when can you take a stock 7m with a mhg and generate 600 hp reliably?

I dont want a MKIV because I already have a MKIII. THE JZ SERIES OF MOTORS WAS DEVELOPED IN THE MKIII. The 1J and 2J are essentially identical. Exactly.... AFTER A REBUILD. 7m performance rebuild w/forged pistons, upgraded rods, etc = AT LEAST $2K USD 2JZGE(T) + 250 for a thicker HG...

Well thats good that you are going with a shop that is familiar with your motor and has a good rep. I would pay a bit more for that if I wasnt very experienced. However, I still think its a better idea to go 2jz. We'll just say that ive been reborn.

Well said, 89supturbo. Many people buy rods, pistons, 1mm bigger valves (2jz valves are 1.5mm bigger than 7m valves), and all this extra crap for the 7m just to make it as durable as the STOCK 2JZ. Dee de Dee. Trust me, I was once the Dee de Dee. No longer. Why not just buy a used 2jz for...

I DO have a 2jz hardon. Its kind of like when you are a teenager and you discover women...... I discovered the 2jz and perhaps someday you will too.

I AM NOT AN AUTOMOBILE MECHANIC BY TRADE. I DO NOT GET THE RATE BECAUSE I "KNOW PEOPLE" For example, when asking for a valve job, I bring the head in disassembled and tell them EXACTLY what I want instead of bringing in an assembled head and saying. "Could you guys fix this" or some other...

Bud, My cert is irrelivant. I got it after I started doing business with them. Its all about how you conduct yourself and the machine shop you work with. Some other shops do worse work and charge more. I shopped around. I got a good company. Nuff said. Its not JDM, its USDM, the cross...

Actually I did get my 7m running and dynoed 365 hp with a 57 trim ct upgrade. The thrust bearing was destroyed a few thousand miles down the road due to a high pressure clutch. Instead of being a JACKASS and spending another 500 minimum to rebuild my motor I decided to purchase a used 2JZGE...

So lets call names dude.... no need to flame. There is nothing ignorant about what I posted. I do not work for a company on cars. I got my ASE cert on my own accord and do automotive work as a HOBBY. The first engine I built cost WAY WAY WAY too much for machine work - Im trying to help a...

Actually, I do know what im talking about. Im an ASE certified tech and I have built a few motors. I pay HALF of what he is being quoted. 75 bucks to surface a block? Give me a break. The price difference you get when you go into a machine shop with knowledge of the subject and competitor's...

It doesnt hurt to re-torque them. I do it on every engine I build.

Like I just told you - its time for a new master cylinder