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I think you guys misread what he said at the beginning. He didnt say that it was at 5psi at all RPMs, he said that it dropped 5psi ACROSS THE BOARD and that it was 5psi at IDLE. He never said that it dropped 35psi

damn man you seem to be pretty sure of yourself Warmer operating temps will reduce viscosity and lower pressure because there is less resistance to flow. Hot+humid = more heat than just hot. Thats why the owners manual says to put in thicker oil during the summer and thinner in the winter.

Why does the TSRM state that minimum oil pressure is 4.something PSI at idle? Your drop in pressure might be due to the warmer weather. You should run thicker oil in the summer than you would in the cold.

Yeah think about the width of the DS and then the torque required to overcome the difference in weight depending on gear ratio. 4" width? = .3 ft/lb torque for every lb of weight on the DS at a 1:1 ratio so in the lower gears it makes even less of a difference. At a 3:1 ratio you would...

Thanks for the input - I thought I had this thing licked with my 90 hose end. Fuck. I guess I will have to wait a week for this shit to come in.

I have a straight bulkhead with a 90 hose end. Im not looking forward to it not fitting.... Did you try to massage the trunk?

Thats an impressive step - maybe they will change the industry

Ya Rajunz - you are right it probably would be pretty easy to just grind them down but I'm not too concerned about it. The only weld I was somewhat concerned about was were the muffler mounts to the pipe because you can see it a bit.... but not too much. I just got back from the metal shop...

thanks guys - it really was a lot of work and took me about two days worth of labor to build the downpipe (check my build thread for pics) and this.

I took it apart and reorganized it and ran it all from underneath the intake mani to the firewall and throught the hole behind the ABS. Alot of those wires were removed on mine.

First things first - dont give me shit about the welds. Yeah they arent the prettiest. So I spent all night last night putting the back half of this thing together. Materials for the entire exhaust (downpipe included) were pretty expensive. Stainless is outrageous. This includes the mandrel...

arent those headers mild steel?

130 days is a long time; ive always preferred 60 at the most... I still have the same number

I ordered all of the fuel stuff today. Spent about 4-5 hours figuring out all of the fittings, drawing the diagrams and processing the order. Lots of different fittings..... Came out to be about $350 for the fittings and lines for the whole system. With the AFPR, dual pumps, injectors, and...

I have a set of the 2jzgte non-vvti coils - the back cover wont go on without modification because it hits the #5 coil. I will probably end up getting one of those center coil covers off of ebay. Im not quite sure how it will look with the NA cam covers though.

So after all of that discussion, this is what I decided to do. Figuring out how to plumb the dual feeds was too complicated and costly. A lot of adaptor fittings have to be purchased to incorporate things like the aeromotive filter. Also I had heard from others that the fuel lines dont take a...

Since Ive last updated, I have mangaged to get a few things done: 4" downpipe bult - it was hard to stuff this in! Re-clocked wastegate flange and built dump tube. IC pipes pretty much done Downpipe, wastegate and turbo hot side coated with thermal barrier Airflow ducting for...

I love the Lexus badge - I got one too so people will be like "what the hell is this thing?"

I have one. PM me

This might help: http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2952 It has some links about different ignition related issues that may help you out.