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Your problem isnt the condenser.

14" chop saw. And most of those welds you see in that last pic were already in the tubing, not my work.

Very neat. Great job. NowHow do you have the plate held down- Did you add another 'threaded' socket towards the center of the head(like the one normally found at the back)?

Made it a bit longer today. Won't be finished till later in the week; I need the piping expanded slightly to join with the flex section. Then I can weld on the 3.5-3 transition, and the Vband. Plus, it's just spot welded. Can't weld it up till I get a tank of trimix gas.

They dim a little bit, then when they get close to minimum voltage, they flicker and shut off completely.

So...Disable it. Just bridge the two wires together at the hood latch, and it can never arm.

What bothers me, is that you can't swing a dead cat on Ebay without hitting a sub-$30 shifter for a mkIV. Are they top notch? Prolly not, so spend $100, and get a nice one-aka- 1/3 the price of a decent mkIII shifter.

Thats the biggest split between hp/tq that ive ever heard of- and 690 ft-lbs out of an sp61??? Wow.

More stainless... A first attempt at the upper downpipe. Also, I have two Vibrant stainless O2 bungs to install at the top. Unfortunately, The wastegate will be so close to the downpipe, that I can't make use of the super-cool Vibrant flex bellows, so I guess I'll try to send it back.

What colors did you end up buying? Oh- Forgot to mention; Go buy the Radio Shack 16-pin sockets for them. They come in 2-packs. You clip them in half, and solder THEM into the boards, instead of the displays themselves. Makes it WAY easier if you ever need/ want to swap them, and it spaces...

Well, since he is at home, I guess he doesn't have to go big. Go 7mgte if your power goals are 250-400hp, go 1/2J if you plan on making a monster out of it, and modding alot of stuff.

And another package. That makes a parcel trifecta- USPS, FedEx, and UPS, all in one day. Got the 3.5" flex section as well. So beefy, I can barely flex it.

Couple more packages arrived today: 1/8 npt- 3an/ 90 degree adapters(for the boost solenoid) -10 pushloc 45 degree fittings(for the oil cooler circuit) 3" metal core cat 3" in/out Magnaflow 308 stainless mig wire A few more parts, and I can start trying to make something.

So...You'll swap a part, THEN diagnose the problem? You're not a doctor, are you? :) 3P and JetJock know more than most of us can ever hope to, when it comes to electrons. I'm gonna guess that if the car runs at ALL, you don't have a problem with the EFI relay.

So, would an increase in water pump pulley diameter help in lowering the rotation speed of an oem pump, in order to keep it out of high rpm caviation(in a racing situation)?

I doubt it. And no, you won't hit fuel cut revving in neutral.

There is no vacuum line that would cause the car to overheat. - What junction of coolant pipes are you referring to? Picture? And are you sure that you're not hitting fuelcut? And I've never heard of code 11. Are you sure it isn't just simply going "blink-blink-blink-blink" in a continuous...

Sounds like alot of good stuff happening.

Yeah... No, the mouse was simply put there for scale.

Thanks for the fresh eye candy! :)