Ground is there, Shaeff's harness has the braid from each wire tied to a single ground that I bolted to the dash support behind the glovebox.
One interesting (or not interesting, I dunno) thing is that the CEL won't kick on until I drive it for a few seconds. It'll idle in the driveway...
Decided since the car wants to be a garage queen I'd at least make it look like one and polish some stuff...
Headed up to the local Sat night meetup, tomorrow I'm going to swap in the other 2j knock sensor and splice its plug into the harness..
Arrg, beyond frustrated today. I got a knock sensor from Lance last night and spent the afternoon swapping it one at a time with both of mine, still got Code 52 after about 30 secs of driving both times. Then I figured what the hell and put one of the 2jzge knock sensors I have in and spliced...
I'm using a 4" intake pipe that came with my DP kit, you can see the ports here:
I had to cut it down to get the filter in there, I'll try to remember to take some more pics. I haven't actually hooked the PCV vent up yet (just have a line that's open to the air), but I plan on running the P/S...
Lance FTW, going to pick up some knock sensors tonight and check out the 2jz Maverick :D If this fixes the car I will celebrate with a burnout video or two :biglaugh:
On the negative side, I'm really pissed at 935 right now. I ordered a set of front struts on 6/19 and they were supposed to...
I used a 7M kit I bought off of ebay for $250 (CXRacing), had to buy 1 extra 45deg coupler and shorten the 3000 pipe that came with it but it fit pretty good. I believe the piping is 2.5" and I didn't have to cut anything on the body.
The IC routing is one of the harder parts of the swap...
Finally got the CEL fixed, code 52 which explains everything LOL. I pulled my knock sensor harness I got from Shaeff and there's continuity between it and the ECU so I'm guessing I have a bad sensor. Hopefully I can find one or two locally so I can get her back up this weekend!
You're probably going to need to angle the dump tube more towards the block, I think it'll hit the firewall the way you have it. Might just be able to rotate it and bolt it back on.
Didn't get a chance to mess with the Supra last night, building a car for the GRM $2008 challenge with some...
Grey is a good color for leak detection and still looks good. Just don't do what I did on the first motor I built for my 4-Runner way back when:
:biglaugh:
On the exhaust, I'm running a 935 3" DIY exhaust with a Megan GT muffler. It's loud but I really like the sound...
Here's what Prosport recommended for the 0-5V input:
0.22V for 7.35A/F and 3.45V for 22.39A/F
I haven't had a chance to try it out yet as the coupler on my turbo outlet melted and I'm trying to figure out the best way to route things so it doesn't happen again...
Think I found my boost leak:
:kloguck:
Guess I need to figure something else out with the turbo outlet, it's obviously too close to the manifold. I have a cast elbow but it's going to need to be trimmed some to fit and I'll have to find someone to weld it. Not much space in there:
I...
I used the autometer settings in the link and it's matching pretty well. I also got ahold of someone at Prosport who's got some answers, I'll let you guys know what comes out of it...
Update-had to run an errand this morning after getting to work. No changes to fuel pressure or anything else and cruise AFRs were in the 12s-13s and it immediately went in the 10s with any boost. Gonna just tear into it this weekend, something's up...
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