Search results

Yeah, maybe you didn't spen $8,000... but you DID spend more than $50. And I'm not saying don't keep the stick, just keep in the car as a "BCB" stick ('Bro- be cool!') You can always pretend to prop the hood with it if it's a tradition, but if I had that kind of time, effort, money, love, and...

Got my replacement dash in today, from Ohio, via Greyhound shipping. It's not perfect, but it's way better than what I had. There's a couple of depressions in the vinyl from being stored for a few years, and I'm hoping that they'll relax out, now that there's no weight on it. Also, one very...

To answer your question- yes I've used a Clutchnet disc, and I would recommend them. It was a 6-puck, and lasted a good long time. There was a small amount of chatter(which is common for 6-puck's), but much better than the p.o.s. stage 2 generic thing that I got off Ebay later on. I had...

Ok, That is an AMAZING job, and a fantastic looking car....but this pic just cracks me up. How much was that transmission swap?

The other obvious thing to check is the condition of the battery connectors and cables.

Apparently, NO ONE here thinks that putting a MkIV front end on a MkIII is a good idea, mainly I suppose, because the two cars has very different/ conflicting design strategies. BUT, as already mentioned, do what you want to do, it's your car. As already mentioned, it will require heavy metal...

Fair enough. And I don't have it ready yet- still needs more adjustment, so we'll see.

Looks sweet!

On the return line, it's 5/16. I had a 5/16 barb that had an-4 female on the other side, and I used a -6 to -4 adapter to connect my -6an fpr outlet line.

I used to have mine set up that way, but it went to AN-6.- I still have the barb. Lemme go check it...

Driftmotion sells an actual adapter that allows you to remove that last rubber hose. At least if I'm thinking of the end that you're talking about.

Congrats, Grim. Looking forward to your end result. And pics!

Yes, but no in the proper sizes combo.

Because I cut the boots off at the bottom, they are not a vise-like grip on the plugs, so I don't think it's as much a concern as it otherwise would be.

Cool, well- I won the auction, so i guess we'll see.

I cut the boots at the bottom, not at the top. The boots are tapered; the higher up the boots you go, the wider they are. easy removal came naturally with the cut.

PS- Here's a couple of pics of what I did: Cut about two inches of boot off, and cut the springs exactly in half. Undermounted mine, and bolted them to the plate from underneath. This way, I can remove the entire assembly in one piece. I added two washers between the coil mounting...

Today, I got word that my new dash is in shipment. Hope to see it in a couple days. Also, I started playing with my 'Nathan' plate, for the coil assembly. Still have some work to do to it, mainly concerning the throttle bracket assembly. But I'll get it figured out.

Not really sure. I moved both holes inward about 3mm each, and that did the trick. The new issue that I'm dealing with, is how to mount the throttle bracket assembly. I'm probably going to have to cut a full cutout on the driver's side of the plate, then put some threaded rod into the mounting...