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Holy mother of satan....Ian bumped an old thread :P He really is getting senile lol

Looks, and so you don't scrape the fuck out of your real bumper...I think thats about it. Most people don't have one, or they just get an after market one. Trying to find a lip that isn't fucked all to hell is pretty hard.

This may sound stupid but what does ELT stand for?

Ok, so I have been asking around and just wanted to know if this will work. Ok so , I used a T off of here into the Charcoal canister. Into C Canister... Then Back to the fuel tank vapor thingy...ma jiger...dealio...thing.. Then the bottom of the canister exits here, right below the...

Yea I know, believe me I am the first person to scold people when they do stupid unsafe shit. Just hope this one time doesn't get me killed that I break my own rules.

We won't know until The good doc replies to this thread :P

It can...but I didn't do the wiring, doc did. He did a switch though, basically instead of the wiring going to the ECU he left it bare and told me to wire a switch to it so I did. Turn the switch on...power to fuel pump, turn it off and no power, but when I leave the switch on, and turn the...

No don't need one now, as this car is going to Cookeville and then going under the knife again to make sure everything is running %100.

O.O that sounds like an awesome thing! Cause then it won't run when the car is in the ON position but not starting! YAY So where is a good place to buy one? And how much are they? And where would I wire it too?

Yea, its pretty self explanatory, but I do think the 1jz has the alt, on the same side as the 2jz, so you just extend them. Takes around an hour to do it properly. Just remember to clamp and solder the wires together, and don't leave anything bare. The last thing you want is a bad connection...

LOL nooo, 2jzgte ECU. The wire with the switch is right off the ECU, like its on the harness, but it has enough length to connect to the ECU itself, this wire is on a switch that is grounded back around to my engine bay. My pump is wired just like the Walbro is supposed to be wired. Basically...

LOL, yea I did, thats how I wired mine up, I talked with shaeff alot too about it. The thing I did not know is Doc did the bypass thing for me.

Always have always will. The wire for the FC was just bare from the harness, Doc did that, and I put the switch on. It only needs to make 1 trip, then I will be fixing it.

No battery is not in the back. I realize that is dangerous, but I need to know if it can be run this way until I get to cookeville, it just needs to make one trip, and then I can rewire it, as I got pissed about the relay shit and cut it out, because it was causing problems. I also did not do...

Yes but what about the wiring Doc did? The fuel pump switch. Black with red stripe and blue is the bypass of the resistor for 12 volts. BUT I still have that switch, If I just grounded it then it will still be on all the time. Should the pump run ALL the time? I thought that this was a possitive...

Yes this is something I was wondering, why does the pump always run, I hooked everything back up as the Doc said and it runs but the pump is on ALL the time. Yes I did the 12 v relay, but it was not working properly because of the switch the Doc put in. The other reason I should have read...

HAH! Wow! I just got this from looking around, I figured I would have to by pass the resistor that makes the FP only get 12 volts. Well that was simple! Awesome Doc, time to get out of bed and go see if it works now!

Your kidding right? I was able to snip them, it was hard, but do able, and I used wire cutters not the wire cutting part on a pair of pliers.

Kaizen FTW! or Driftmotion! or Jarco.

Yea, new hard lines = removing or lifting the engine...I mean you could get them in but, yea. Taking them out...Wire cutters and some brute force. With the engine out of my car it was a PITA to try and get them out without damaging them, I gave up 1/2 way and cut them out.