If you have TE1 jumpered and the throttle is closed (IDL signal 0V) and the car speed is 0 (stopped) then timing will be set to 10 degrees. If the timing is jumping around then the most likely scenario is the IDL signal is saying the throttle is open or your jumper is not making good contact...
I would start with the wear item. Pull the IGN switch connector off and check the operation of the ignition switch with an ohmmeter. Chances are the ACC terminal is on all the time.
This shouldn't be too hard to diagnose by a competent tech. The car is running 12.3:1, so its clearly not in fuel control. Surprised it doesn't show a check engine light.
That is correct E1 is noisier than E2. The analog THA signal is referenced to the clean E2 ground. The digital Ks AFM signal is referenced to the noisier E1, since Ks has a much higher noise margin.
Ks is a digital signal, and any good designer will be careful to keep his analog grounds separate from the noisy digital grounds. Treat the "schematic" shown on the symbol as notional, it does not represent in any true way what is going on.
If you didn't resurface the block then the chances of the MHG sealing are close to nil. And the knock sensors are not active below 1600 rpm and 48% load, so any knocking at idle is from something else.
I have used ATF (Dexron 3) for many years in my PS system, along with a magnefine inline filter. I suspect that any oil meeting MIL-H-5606 would be an okay substitute.
Hondas are definitely not okay with ATF or regular PS fluid. They will foam like crazy and overflow the reservoir.
My...
Are you trying to use the 7M ECU with the 2JZ engine? If so, I would suggest you fix the codes 21 and 31 which have nothing to do with the battery ground by the way.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.