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Stump the chumps!

If the 100A fuse blew, then a battery hooked up backwards is a distinct possibility. Presumably happened when you replaced the battery last. In that case, you've got some work ahead finding all the fried components.

You're the man, Gary! I forgot that E01/02 are isolated from the E1/E2 ground by a diode inside the ECU. That seems to fit the problem.

Spark, with no injectors, 12V on injection circuit to ECU, and no codes is highly unusual. A bad Igf signal might cause those symptoms, but that sets a code. A bad NE signal from distributor would not produce a spark or injection. Could be a bad ECU but that is very rare. If it was me, I would...

This one http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=1

In post 1 you say that the ignition is good. How did you test that? In Post 5 you say that the injectors have power at the ecu. You mean that there is 12V on the #10, #20 and #30 pins at the ecu?

Code 31, I figured as much. Does your multimeter have a frequency (Hz) function? That's what you need to diagnose the AFM.

You need to extract the codes. Hook up the MIL and run the test.

How are you testing the injector firing? A noid light or oscilloscope?

Poodles test is performed on a disconnected ball-joint stud where you are testing the resistance to rotation, an indication of how tight the ball is in the socket and is indeed used to gauge wear. That is not what this thread is about. The OP could not torque the nut on the stud as it was...

The ECU computes a number that is incremented when VE>30% and rpm>2500 and decremented otherwise every 64ms. If the number exceeds 55040 then a high average load condition is flagged. Higher rpms cause it to go up faster. For example, high load is continuous VE>30% and rpm> 2500 for about 7.4...

The logic in the ECU raises the idle speed 100 rpm to 750rpm if OILP is low. On my car, I have datalogged it and it never triggers, even when the engine if off, so its a bit of a mystery to me. On the bench, I can definitely get it to trigger by making the OILP input low or high, but on the...

That doesn't usually work for the top arm since it is not load bearing, but glad it worked out for you.

Well, its possible the wires were changed, but I doubt it. You're not the first person to have 3 CPS wires that look the same color. Usually the colors are preserved for the piece of wire shielded inside the CPS (assuming the CAP wasn't lost by the PO), so that is one way to figure it out. G1...

Stick to fixing your car, and don't take it so personally. This is the internet after all. Your green and 3 white wires are what happens when colored plastic sits next to a hot manifold for 25 years. The colors have faded away. You will need to trace the wires back inside the CPS to figure it...

Its tapered of course and the only thing that stops it spinning is the friction between the stud and wall of the knuckle. The first thing to do is make sure the two parts are dry of grease and oil, that can reduce the friction between the two parts. Clean it good with solvent and the friction...

Pull it apart and remove any grease from the ball joint stud and knuckle receptacle with a degreaser and rag. Then reinstall and tighten.

Whoa, bad ECU is the last thing to assume. Start with the easy stuff and work your way to the harder checks. If the CEL is not illuminating, first check the Gauge, IGN, and EFI fuses are good. Then move on to troubleshoot the B+ lines. Turn on the ignition and look for 12V on B+ at the...

By the way, the color changes you observe between the various pieces of the interior were not there when the car was new. 25 years of sun, oxygen, outgassing and heat have faded the parts to different degrees. To make it all look like it was new isn't going to happen, no matter what you do.

"Lucky we didn't say anything about the dirty knife"