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I don't think anyone who has claimed volume is proportional to boost has ever looked at a compressor map. If they had they would notice that for a specific mass flow there are a huge spread of available pressure ratio's. Its all about MASS of air, MASS of fuel forget about volume.

There will only be an issue when the temperature of your transmission fluid rises above the safe operating temperature recommended by the manufacturer. If it does there will be lubrication issues in the transmission and THEN stuff will start failing. Brakes don't care! The engine doesn't care...

Would this be 4 bushes for each front corner and 3 for each rear corner? Total of 14 bushes?

I cant be bothered reading all of these posts but if it hasn't been all ready suggested, get a 1.3lt hyabussa engine and drop it in. Atleast one company in england has done this, also there are people out there who turbocharge these things to around 500hp and do nearlly 300km/hr on the back...

who doesn't want to reap the benifits of wider tyres?

Ok from the reverse sensor you need to hook up pins RB and C illustrated by the trsm: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=41 There is no polarity or anything so just hook one cable to RB and the other to C. I may have cut the plug off my transmissions to make it...

It says its for a 7M and the flywheel is included. Unless they can provide the flywheel with a JZ bolt pattern it wont work. Rob

No. I think you should go do some reading on basic turbocharger setups. There is a pressure line that goes from the compressor housing to the waste gate. The waste gate is a device that bypasses exhaust gases around the turbine wheel in an effort to control boost pressure which is proportional...

I think that is freaking great! I now am anal and try and park in an area away from high traffic area's.

I like when other people blow shit up, it lets me know what to avoid

Whats the feramic clutch like?

Ahh not %100 sure, I think if you get a US spec set of turbo's you'll be fine look at Titan Motorsport they usually have them cheap. From what I have seen it has been enough of a headache for people to go straight to a single turbo. Rob

this is only required if you plan on keeping the OEM turbo setup. Most people go for an aftermarket setup to avoid said reason.

Possibly even shrink a sleeve over the area with a small shrinkage allowance as not to imply a too large stress over the area effecting the operation of the gear set. This would keep the carrier in primarily compression or well at least lesser amounts of tension increasing its load capacity.

It would look better if it was less "testarossa " inspired on the sides.

Detroit do make a TruTrack that is a g-series diff but the offset's are all wrong for an IRS setup compared to the live rear end it was designed for. Pain in the ass!

Well the cam covers are defiantly of a GZE but that still doesn't change the about compression ratio's across the series of motors. PS if you like 1g stuff check out 6BOOST's threads. Also pleas show more proof of 1ggte/gze compression ratio's and I'll believe you.

When you say Ron Lange I am assuming his handle is 160TU? Runs his 1ggte in a Gemini? Looking at his photos the engine in his car, that is a GZE.

I would measure my pistosn but they are in the car, GZ20 soarer with a 1ggte. GTE: 8.5:1 GZE: 8.0:1 GE: 9.5:1 There are no doubts about it I am sorry, who ever told you that a GTE was 8.0:1 really needs to cheack again. I am also on toymods. Rob

Your eyes they lie :)! If you dont believe me go do an intranet search, besides that it is rathe rwell documented in regards to the compression of each series of engine.