The 12v mod bypasses the resistor not the relay. The relay could be making noise but depends on how te car is wired or is this a factory 1jz car?
Also based off that clearing things up by cleaning the cam sensors I would say that is most likely your problem.
Crank sensor mounts on exhaust...
Return is smaller.
If the suction hose is cracked or your getting air into the pump it will do exactly what your experiencing. The 7m pumps are pretty tough. Shouldn't take a shit from sitting.
Clearance from what?
It's very hard to measure anything to see if wheels will fit. As the outside part of the rotor is in a different position than the stock rotor. It also sits farther back.
It's always a good idea to replace all the old stuff.
I'm a fan of replacing all the arms for good measure. The battle version arms are really nice.
Will the rear suspension take 450. It will.
The control arm can push over the energy lower bushings under harder conditions.
http://www.superpro.com.au/?v=toyota-supra-jza80---1993-2002/999500504/4650
I would look into something like these. That link is for mk4. They have mk3 too.
If it jumped a tooth all cylinders would be effected.
Leak down test would be more useful at this stage. Kinda strange that it's only on even numbered cylinders.
The oil is what will make it misfire on 3 cylinders. One of the Pistons is likely melted.
Blown turbos usually blow the oil straight out the exhaust.
Usually if the timing slips a tooth it doesn't run worth shit. Also won't cause blue smoke.
Also could have hydrolocked.
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