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Superpro is another supplier for control arm bushings. http://superpro.com.au/trade/?view=vehicle&listMake=67&listModel=182&listSeries=441

Yeah typo on my part. I would choose JIC over AN as well. Steel fittings which are used on everything from tractors to earth movers. Aluminum AN stuff is pretty over-hyped, basically paying for the name & the appearance.

Industrial flare fittings (JIS) use an angle of 37° AN fittings spec the same angle but it is not recommend to couple them together.

If a build was done on a brand new head this insert would probably not be necessary. Since most of the heads around these days have lost a great deal of their hardness, this modification helps. Not to mention the increased clamping load that is requested of the head now with aftermarket...

The point of the insert is to prevent the Al head from collapsing in creating a smaller ID. --> <-- The machining & press fit of the insert makes the difference. Another different washer on top only isn't going to prevent it. Similarly, there is a reason Aluminum wheels use steel inserts...

Yeah I would say so. Why do you think there is such a difference? When you can order out of country and still save $.

You buy them from Toyota. Find the Part #'s http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291220/catalog.aspx?F=4802&P=1 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291220/catalog.aspx?F=4804&P=1 Go to your local dealer or buy online from 1 of a hundred different Toyota OEM websites.

Dang... At least worth a try.

Vega Try this guy. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/4324401562.html Saw this ad here not too long ago. Worth a shot. :D

Tried verifying the sensor yet? http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?396736-DIY-Testing-AEM-wideband-gauges-sensors

Honestly they really messed up the manual IMO. ONLY use pages RA-35 - RA38 for setting preload. They make much more sense, since the carrier is removed from the case when they spec the pinion bearing preload. Make sure you notice the difference between use and new bearings as well.

Pinion Preload is only for the Pinion Bearings. Total Preload is referring to the Carrier Bearings only. They should have re-worded it IMO. So the reading you get from the total preload is actually the pinion + the carrier combined, since you are turning both at once. Just subtract the pinion...

Rolling torque is still a useful measurement to be taken even if its not called out in the manual. Typically rolling is 2-3 in/lbs less than starting torque.

Its stated clearly in the FSM (at starting) Page: RA-25

You need to be measuring and recording breakaway torque and rolling torque regardless.

How much are you changing the shim stack per try? Usually takes a couple big changes to fall within 10-15 in/lbs. From there you want to make very small changes < .001" Torque the pinion nut to a minimum of 150 ft/lbs & measure the preload with an in/lb wrench. If you don't have one, find one or...

Try cleaning the shaft up a bit, might be easier the next time. I haven't encountered any that felt as tight as you say yours is.

Design and fabricate a bracket, use the cable. http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/PressReleases/pr153_wilwood_MC4_mechanical_parking_brake_caliper.pdf Viper Uses one stock. http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2009-dodge-viper-srt-10-suspension-walkaround.html Spend a boatload and build a...

Buy a press, don't use a hammer. Expect to press it on and off a few times. You won't damage the bearing taking it on and off the shaft a few times.

Your plan is about right. Though I would not use the old pinion front bearing to set your preload then switch to the new one and expect it to stay the same. Plan on disassembling the pinion at least a few times to get the preload within spec with your in/lb torque wrench. Don't forget to...