Search results

Don't worry, the pump can handle more than 14V. The FPR VSV should have 12 Volts on BOTH terminals under all conditions except a hot start. For a hot start the Red-Blue wire will be 0V. The Black-Red wire is effectively B+, so is always 12V. You can check for correct VSV operation as shown...

Your numbers seem ok, but that's with no fuel pump load since engine is off. What I would suggest is you repeat measurements with FP B+ jumpered. That when your B+ seems to take a big hit 14.53 to 12.99V. But really, the best test would be to run 12V straight to the pump from the battery...

Great, now we can compare. At idle, your Bat to B+ drop at 0.9V is twice mine (0.46V). Your FP to pump drop at 0.45V is 3 times higher than mine (0.14V). Even though your battery voltage starts out higher, your pump voltage at 9V is 1V lower. Jumpered, your Bat to B+ drop at 1.54V is 3x...

I think the focus on idle was due to the low stock pressure at idle, which would make even small extra pressure drops significant. At 3000 rpm where you have 30+ psi a 2psi drop is no big deal. That said, at idle the flow rate is much less, so the drop should scale accordingly.

So it looks like maybe 2 psi for the hoses, and maybe another 2 for the cooler and fittings at 5 GPM. That doesn't seem too bad.

For reference, this is my car Engine at idle, battery 14.31V: at pump: 9.89V, at FP terminal diag box: 10.03V (this is the pump in low speed mode, with dropping resistor in place). wiring drop is 0.14V Engine at idle, battery 14.31V: Jumpered B+ to FP at pump 12.77V 4.9A diag box FP: 13.85V...

What kind of pressure loss is seen with a thermostatically controlled external full-flow setup? I have no feel for whether its a few psi or more. I have always liked the more modern coolant-based oil coolers such as on the JZ engines or pretty much anything else these days. Seems it has the...

Current draw of pump seems good. Is that 12.17 volts with the engine off? If so, seems about right. There is no fuel flow spec that I know of for the 7MGTE. But this seems so severe that it should be obvious I hope. Disconnect the return line from the FPR and attach a short hose to a container...

Don't worry about code 12. Its probably the STA signal to the ecu is bad. Its a non-issue for now. The fuel pressure is the key issue you have. Based on your test results, especially 10 psi at full rev and 8 psi drop on snap test says you have a fuel system that cannot supply enough fuel...

Well, you jogged my memory about my Sienna steering wheel. New, the wheel was quite definitely Elantra like. It had a soft matte grippy look and feel. After 6 months it turned shiny and now looks and feels like regular leather, even after a good cleaning. So I'm retracting my down vote on...

alcantera is not something I would pick, mainly because its not really an OEM material. But its your choice, and going outside the box can be a good thing.

Unless you can also dress up the fake stitching on the dash to match, I would not go for the colored stitching. I am also not a big fan of thumb holds and the like because it looks too aftermarket for my liking.

Umm. You said you were getting power to everything in the ECU. How do you conclude that if you don't know what the wires do at the ECU? I will tell you that when I have run into cars with a dead check engine light its usually always an ECU power issue. That would seem to be confirmed by the...

If you ground the W terminal at the ECU connector does the light turn on? Ignition on for this test.

The alternator you bought is a 70A for a 7MGE. I guess GE and GTE mount differently.

Any success on this one?

I used one for rockauto that matched the original. I had to loosen the rack clamps but really not a big deal. This was on a 90 with PPS. I know the rack banjos are different on the non PPS racks.

Seems like it could be the wiring, probably at the AFM connector. Try wiggling and pushing on it while someone else cranks. You can use an ohmmeter to check continuity from AFM to ECU.

Can you get a wideband and measure A/F at cruise 2000 rpm or go to a shop that has a 4 or 5 gas analyzer? Alternately, do this test. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=119

You can buy just the alternator brushes from Toyota. They are about $15 online. Toyota Part No.: 27370-42010 HOLDER ASSY, ALTERNATOR BRUSH