Search results

Awesome progress. Now you are worrying about stopping!!

Did you fix that pinched pipe too?

If it test good on the bench then yes. The coil has 12V to one side all the time with ignition on (black red wire). The ECU grounds the other side of the coil to actuate it (red blue wire). If the red-blue wire is getting shorted somewhere then the VSV will be on all the time. It should get...

VSV should connect FPR to vacuum port with no power to it (which is the normal condition). With power it vents FPR to air through the little filter.

Awesome. I hope this finally solves your problem. A pinched line matches all your symptoms

The stock seals are identical for intake and exhaust.

Its a complicated system. Good luck. I'd start with the hot side. First check the heater coolant valve for the heater core in the engine bay. Its known to fail.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&P=15

or ebay.

He just wants to relocate the filter. Everything else is staying the same, including the stock oil cooler and pressure relief adapter on the block. I understand his motivation completely, the stock filter is a pain to remove especially with an automatic.

My car has done that from time to time. The solution was to pull the door lock mechanism out and clean and lube all the parts. After 30 years the Factory grease dries up!

From memory you just need to crimp or hammer the rivet tighter after removing the lamp base from the car.

Its all in this thread, though its kind of spread all over the many posts. http://www.supramania.com/forums/threads/212390-Bolt-on-Big-Brake-Kit-For-around-300

Its the rivet. There is a thread on repairing it somewhere on this site but I can't seem to find it..

I would check the starter circuit first. You could have a coincidental fault in the starter circuit that looks like an alarm problem. Its a simple test. Ground pin 13 (blue-orange) of the alarm ECU.

The alarm knows the doors are locked because there is a switch in each door's "power-lock" solenoid that closes when the door is locked and this is separate from the switch in the key cylinder. For disarming the alarm, the hatch key switch is on a separate circuit from the two door key...

ahh good point. Well, I have one in my garage, but its spoken for.

According to Jeff 04443-14520 is still available. No?

Stay focused on getting it running well. Plenty of time for that stuff later.

You would think that someone had at least characterized a small block chevy oil pump, but I came up empty handed. This is data of a gear pump very similar to the 7M design, so at least it is representative. You can see that the "slip" pf the pump is pretty small over a huge pressure range...