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looks like theres gold glitter in my oil. thats a good enough answer for me, I am not even going to bother cutting up the oil filter. one last question; about how much should a block cost me?

Im draining the oil and hacking the filter tommorrow, ill post pics to get some opinions...

I was thinking about that (not hearing it)... apexi n1 turbo muffler + 12" sub bumpin'= not hearing much of the engine

yea, i had it in neutral.

Put the breaker bar on the crank, wouldnt move either direction. looks like its time for a rebuild. I am not even going to bother with the oil until i get our garage cleaned out and start ripping it apart.

Trying to turn the crank is the first thing I was planning on doing tommorrow. cut open the oil filter? If it was a knock wouldn't I have had more than two days to drive like this? I have had vehicles that developed a knock, poured thicker oil in it and got 25k more miles. It wasn't even that...

It does not clank at idle. It has only been making this noise for a day or two and i didnt really pay attention to if it got louder as the engine got warmer.... but i think the noise stayed consistant no matter the engine temp.

Checked the oil first thing and its where it should be and oil pressure was fine the whole time. I would describe the sound as more of a metal slapping, so yea a knock not a ping. A friend of mine suggested vaporlock, not really sure what this is or what to check. By the way, the weather...

I have an 88 supra with 7m-gte. I have only done a couple of minor things to it such as; uprgarded ct-26 60-1, divorced downpipe, cone filter, ngk spark plugs & wires.... hitting 11-12 psi, etc. The past two days the car had been making this clanking noise between 2500-3000 rpm. I was...

..... anyone car to explain what an IIRC is?

Thanks

My timing belt kept riding back, so I started looking around and realized my crankshaft timing pulley did not match the pictures in my repair manual and I am pretty sure this is what keeps causing my belt to ride back. pictures.... According to the pictures in my manual there is...

I am sorry for the slowness but I really busy with school and work, so I do not get chances to work on my car. It is my only mode of transportation I can't take it apart, not knowing if I'll have enough time to get it together before work. The weekend is coming hopefully I can get a chance to...

Rob- It does not die if you are sitting still and press the clutch in, only if you are driving above 3500 rpm and press the clutch in and leave it in. I'll check later to see if they drop a little, when you press it in neutral. As far as I know its the stock clutch, whatever comes in an 88'...

In response to blade... It did it a months ago, but rarely and now it is occuring more regularly.

If you let off the throttle rapidly and press in the clutch the rpms drop like they normally would. They just don't stop around 1000 rpm the just continue to fall, no studdering or anything. It does not do this I you alone let off the throttle, you have to press the clutch too.

I love when my car has problems, because I find 10 more problems while trying to fix the orginal. I doubt it is the check engine light bulb, that would be way to simple. The previous owner rewired my car in the ghetto-est of ways. So the light probably doesn't work as a result of his...

I looked at those instructions, connected terminals E1 and TE1 but the check engine light didnt even blink once. And now that I think of it I don't think I have ever seen it come on. So now I wondering if it works. If I unplug the terminals and turn the car to on without cranking the engine...

I am going outside to check right now...

I just checking to be sure... the stock bov goes from the acordian hose the the intercooler 3000 piping? If so then, no everything is plugged up the correct way and I replaced the whole thing summer 2007.