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really dang good thing i research this before i baught a q45 lol. and i though the stock tb was 2.75"? 60mm translate to 2.36"? right? or did i read something wrong its getting late :aigo: lol

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i would think it would be better on stop and go. ive had big IC that would heat soak badly on a 95 deg weather. and IJ i was wondering if the second would support 450whp? im looking for stealth look. IJ would ic get heat soak if it were to be mounted inside the engine bay ? or does it have to be...

so i was looking on ebay for an intercooler and i ran into this liquid to air intercooler. seems preaty cheap. i know IJ has this set up but i dont think his was ebay brand PRICE IS $70 plus shipping liquid to air INTERCOOLER seem that its rather cheap. anybody else used ebay...

Well I run into this problem a while back. but my car was parked in my garage for a while and now that i got the smog issue taking car off i will be able to test drive the car again to try to fix this problem. MODS. 550cc with soppurting mods(pump/fpr/ss lines etc.) Greddy IC, piping/bov...

Im preaty sure PA smog laws are easier than californias. and as i said ill cost me about 350. to do that, thats why im looking to see if it possible since i have almost all n/a parts

anybody?

OK so today i basically went over THE WHOLE car to try to figure things out. AND the GOOD news is that i was able to fix the solinoid cycle problem. so it hits solid boost(under 15 psi) and solid duty cycle. The bad new is it has the same problem. It wont let me pass 15 psi. Its Trowing...

EVERYTHING on the car is turbo. its a FULL turbo swap. not just na-t. and to relate i doesnt do it when its super obious. (i took to him my 90 with Excessive mods and she say..."you mod to much i can do this"(it has bigger turbo/vpc/550 FFIM the whole deal.) and ill cost me 350 to smog...

OK well it that time of the year for my 89 supra. SMOG time in california. so what you way? well the shell is an N/A and i swap a turbo motor in it. solution... de-turboing. that or swap an n/a motor again. anyways what do i need to do to do this? i have all stuff my the n/a but how will i...

i use the initialise to reset everything. and yup. is there a switch or an option where i can tell the controller if its a external wasgate or an internal one like the hks?

yup its installed right. ok well I decided to reset everything. and still doing the same thing. :icon_evil this is driving me crazy. Is the duty cycle even supose to go up higher than set? because i always set it low(around 40-60) but when i use the peak hold it shows 90% duty cycle

nope. i look trough all the setting and nothing explain why its doing what its doing

its pointed down. im using the same line i use for the VPC sensor

ok so let say i set it to boost 1.5 and I set the valve duty to around 30% for the first run. and then go WOT at 3rd. The first thing is it boost fine till all of a sudden it feels like it hit a wall and then accelerate again. (kinda like fuel cut) When i look at the peak using peak and...

thanks ill try that next but i think i have a leack in the system somewhere. dam hks evc is so much easier lol

ur right its IJ edited. and i believe its at 35. But the thing that confused me is IF it is FC why NOW? I used a MBC and hit 20+ PSI on it and NO FC? now i cant even raised it up to 15+

EDIT ITS NOT FUEL CUT well i decided to put back my MBC and it holds at 20 psi. with no problem. I am now convince that its an avcr setting. anyone incounter this problem? ********* Heres what happend. my original set up consist of: S-afc, vpc and mbc +(external wasgate)(ofcourse...

really? I was not aware of that. thanks i thought the hood latch would be preaty strong. and yup a bit. but nothing to high power goat to brag about. and check your pm i have a quick question. thanks

yeah as i said before its temporary. but i am curious on how you will make one with out screws. if you dont mind me asking.