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ford made a removable hard top gt mustang. Or so someone with one told me. The targa doesn't look good to me either.

Why not just stuff the kit in a closet for safe keeping?

I hope no one has used the windows to close the doors. Over a long period of time that will cause the side to side play of the window with the doors open. A buddy did it with his mustang over the course of a few years.

It sounds like a BHG. I had the same problem with the cranking and cooling overflowing when trying to burp the system. I'll never run mine again with any kind of coolant leak. If you do change the headgasket, get ARP BOLTS not STUDS. If you don't you'll see when you try to sit the head...

I fixed my BHG for around 150 dollars. And i own a 240SX. I personally prefer the supra. They get relatively the same gasmilage. Parts really aren't cheaper for the nissan either. Stay with the supra; IMO.

can I run stock 3rd gen RX-7 rims on my '91 supra turbo?

I would listen to him. If burping doesn't help, it may be the fan. The worst it could be is a BHG

I would suggest getting slotted or blank. Drilled rotors will crack. Sure porsche (hope that's the correct spelling) uses them, but they crack on them too; they look cool though. On the slotted or blank note if it's a daily driver that sees some auto-x or drag, personally I'd get blanks; but...

In fluid dynamics, the volumetric flow rate, also volume flow rate and rate of fluid flow, is the volume of fluid which passes through a given volume per unit time. You should be calculating volumes; not areas. Lenght X Width X Height or the appropriate formula(s).

on another note, would anyone be interested in a fiberglass one? I might try my hand at one.

I searched "underbody tray" , "underbody", and etc... but i never thought to call it that. Sorry for the thread on a dead horse.

I would go with what IJ and DR J said before doing a port and polish. And if it is just a casting mark, go ahead and get it ported and polished.

The big piece of plastic under the engine bay. I'm debating on removing mine. I know the benefits of having it. Just wanted to know who on here are still using his/hers. And thoughts and feelings on removal

I was leaning more towards the maft-pro. Thanks for helping me make up my mind.

I don't want a manual boost controller because the humidity and air temp around here varies too much. With a little extra part or two it can be used as a fuel and ignition computer too...like maft-pro. Which i'm leaning more towards because I know it works.

A buddy of mine is selling his Turbo XS DTEC boost controller with knock light, game boy, and game boy stand for 500.00 ...I was wondering what you guys think about the system.

Thanks guys. I found the leak.

After doing a search and looking through five pages of posts, I still can't find how to adjust the idle. If someone would tell me where in the tsrm idle adjustment is located i'd greatly appreciate it.

I don't know, but it wasn't releasing the pressure. Could have been how he had it plumbed?

I did a compession test this weekend and my #5 and #6 were oily, not as bad as yours. I was told by the guy helping me that it's normal for the rear two to be that way on this motor. He has owned and modified MKIII since '99. He told me why, for the life of me i can't remember what he said...