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I wouldn't worry about condensation under the cap, but if you see droplets of coolant on your dipstick, or if your oil is a little milky when you change it, you've got head gasket issues. Condensation isn't necessarily a sign of problems, but would be one of the indicators of problems. I'd look...

Very interesting guys. Admittedly I'm an electronics dunce, but I know enough to appreciate what is involved, and how powerful a few simple circuits and some clever programming can be. I'll be watching your progress closely. I had considered the Suprastick to be perfect for my own requirements...

You think a bare shell weighs that much? I was thinking about 1200 lbs max...?? Full car ~3600lbs Tires/Wheels ~175lbs Interior ~250lbs Rear Hatch ~100lbs Targa ~40lbs Rear Subframe, Fully Loaded ~600lbs Front Subframe, Fully Loaded ~400lbs Engine 475lbs Transmission 140lbs Hood 50...

Yeah...I don't know what the hell I'm gunna do. Seriously considering scrapping this chassis and finding one with less rust on it. The more I cut, the more rust I find. I know as well as anybody that if you don't get it all, than you might as well not get any of it, and I'm not sure it is going...

My concern is that I'm going to be running a twin turbo V8...750hp is not out of the question. Shine Auto dosen't show those fender flares you're referring to. I've sent them an e-mail inquiring. It would be really sweet to be able to just bond and blend some nice fenders instead of dealing...

I had been through almost that entire thread without finding anything specific to my question, however I did come across something when just reading again that makes me rethink things. One of the members posted (and others agreed) that the width of the tire has less to do with straight line...

So I'm in the middle of some serious rust repair on my '87, and while I've got the wheel arches to fully repair, I'm thinking now would be the best time to add additional flare to the rear fenders to accomodate a larger width tire. I'd like to run 315-35-17's out back with a 17x12 wheel...

I'd say you've got months worth of repair work to do on the driver side before you should spend a dime on bling parts. Make sure you take body measurements per the collision repair manual (you can find it right on the SM forums in PDF form) to ensure the chassis isn't F'd. Get the shell fixed...

Sorry, but your common sense is flawed. I'm done trying to explain this. I would personally buy these bars without hesitation if I wasn't intending on fabricating my own anyway.

That would only be an issue if we thought all of our cars were folding in the middle when the targa was removed. It isn't, its twisting. The bar is meant to prevent twisting between the front half of the car and the back half. The bars do nothing to prevent folding as that would require straight...

I completely disagree. The whole point of the brace is to maintain the dimensional integrity of the chassis. This is being done by making sure the rear bolt point on the driver side as it relates to the front bolt point on the passenger side maintains a relative alignment to the opposite two...

And the heavy windshield is moving around because what it is attached to is moving around. You need to box in all forces for everything to share the load. Without the top bolted in, the same load coming from suspension forces behind the targa and in front of the targa needs to be controlled by...

Ugh...you can tell by the conversations on this thread that only about 1.8 people here have any engineering background. That brace looks more than adequate for the task of preventing racking across the targa gap and I disagree that any further bracing within the weldment is required. I do a...

In the process right now. It is a ton of work. The actual well which you see inside needs to be removed in pieces. you'll never actually "remove" any of these parts because they are spot welds stacked on spot welds stacked on spot welds. I have been removing pieces which are good by grinding out...

Are there more details on your rig somewhere? Curious about it all 'round. SGinNE

All Supra LSD's have a tag on the rear cover that says "LSD Oil Only". That tag could fall off over time however. The easiest way to see whether there is an lsd or not is to jack up the back of the car, put the transmission in Neutral, and spin the tire on one side. If the other side moves in...

Very strong work all around. Man...you have far more balls than I do to swap an engine AFTER a fresh (and expensive) paint job. EEK!. Nice. SGinNE

I'm in the middle of some large rust repair work right now. DON'T DO FIBERGLASS!!!!!! All you're doing is sealing in the "cancer" and allowing it to spread quicker. To effectively fix your car, you need to cut all the rust out, and have new steel welded in. If you're hoping to just have it last...

God bless chicks with dirty fingernails. Nice friggin work. My jaw dropped when I saw a 7M successfully loaded into the back of a Scion. Kudos. SG in NE

The technical term for a piece of threaded hardware that has LH threads on one side and RH threads on the other is a Turnbuckle. What you have however looks like some sort of custom machined component. I think if it is bolted down well you shouldn't need to concern yourself with being able to...