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The core can't be "exposed" like what you're suggesting. It slides in from the side of the heater box and is either all the way out, or all the way in. I'm going to be pulling my heater core tonight and I can take pics of it if you want. I'm not sure I understand why you're wasting time building...

I have a set of used seals that are in good enough shape...not sure if thats the direction you want to go or not. SGinNE

Illumina 2's on a non-tems car isn't pointless, you just need to know the three adjustment points on the strut rods and set them with a screwdriver. Nothing wrong with being able to manually adjust them. I have two good Illumina 2's in the corner of the shop not getting used, so if you need a...

Can you explain what board you're using for your inputs as well as what you're using as an interface to change your TEMS settings? I'm always facinated by projects like this mostly because I'm a "mechanical guy" and when electrons start flowing, my head starts spinning. I've thought about...

I am setting aside a nice set of spare seats I just acquired specifically to duplicate your project....your work is an inspiration and I look forward to trying it myself at some point. Keep up the excellent work. SGinNE

Indeed. I just sent a totally stripped Targa shell to the scrapper and was cut a check for $80. That was for 800lbs of steel. Not bad. Good find. I just bought my '87 Hardtop w/o engine and transmission for $600, so you win.

A perfect description.... I just removed a dash last night, and having the wheel out of the way (either by removing or dropping) is key. I actually prefer dropping it down since it gets the signaling lever cluster out of the way as well and safe(r) from damage. It is a PITA, but frankly...

Threaded hydraulic connections are typically pressure (banjo bolts, etc) , while just hose barbs which require a simple hose clamp would be suction / return (low pressure). SGinNE

The high pressure line on the rack (the one without the hose clamp...crimped connection) goes to the banjo bolt / high pressure output of the pump. The low pressure line on the rack (hose clamp) goes to the return on the reservoir. The suction line on the pump (also low pressure) goes to the...

I have a bad habit of keeping EVERYTHING which is in half decent shape from parts cars before scrapping, and I have an overflowing parts room to prove it. 3/4 of the stuff I keep I know I'll never need, but then again, you never know. Plus, selling parts is a great way to recoup project money...

If you've never done body work than just turn away...These cars have an uncanny way of truly disintegrating once the rust starts in. The rust you can see is usually only a small percentage of the problem. If you aren't a pro or haven't had years of experience working metal than the only thing...

So a big V8 with Turbos is better for driving, response, control, and massive power. Check.

Well I wasn't going to just come out and say it, but I'm going the TT V8 route as well...not a big fan of boosting the junk out of smaller displacement motors hoping for reliable power. I'm not scared of running iron under the hood though, so for some my setup is somewhat crude. To each his...

One can find an exception to nearly every rule...this would be the 7M exception. Good point about parts availability. I know there are lots and lots of guys here who have said that if they were to do it over again, they would have started with the 2J. I'm not sure I can think of anybody who...

I think most everybody who ends up with a 500hp 7M eventually goes 2J. Why not learn from others' experiences and just start with a 2JZ-GTE? SGinNE

I'm sure you've already discovered that every seam has a sealer between the layers that makes welding impossible. I'd be willing to bet money your welds are coming out poorly because you're hitting sealer. I had to cut every spot weld in effected areas and remove each layer of sheetmetal down to...

Just as an FYI, every area I found with surface rust had significant rusting on the opposite side of the effected panel. I didn't at first consider surface rust to be much of an issue, but when I realized that all surface rust needed to be cut out as well the scope of the project doubled. Might...

I think you've got a basic understanding of what's involved, but I don't think you appreciate how far that rust can hide inside the complex curves of the gas fill area, in the rockers, and up into the rear subframe rails. I commend your enthusiasm however and wish you the best. For the record...

I've given up on my rusty shell. Spent all winter cutting and welding only to find the rust in every enclosed area I opened up. finally realized (about 6 months too late) that no matter how much I fix, I won't be able to get it all. As I'm sure you know, if you don't get it all, you might as...

OK...I give...WTF is it?