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Yea, I know the cam timing is fine...I haven't been able to find my timing light though...I'll try to find that and see if there is any descrepancy.

If you have a catch can you should use it...I've seen a few valve cover filters that get filled with oil and it makes a big mess all over your engine eventually.

I have school all day today, so I'll try what aphxero said tomorrow by putting some vise grips on the return line and see what that does, maybe after putting my original fuel pressure regulator on.

Well, on my first post I wrote that I installed the JDM 440s...when doing the initial testing(with the 370's in) someone mentioned what you said to do, so I started pinching the return line until I could hear my fuel pump slow down(before I ever hooked up the fuel pressure guage), and it idled...

No wideband, no tuning. Stock ECU.

Yes, it's very frustrating. It's been a few months now I've been trying to figure this problem out. I thought for sure the fuel pressure problem was regulator related, but for all I know the regulator I just put on is in worse condition than the one I pulled off. One thing I wondered about...

Ok, the fuel pressure regulator came today and I installed it...only to find it running worse! Now it idles around 30-32ps, and when I pull the vacuum line off the needle bounces between around 36-42psi as fast as the needle will move. Now,when parked, if I give it more than 1/4 throttle it...

Yea, I've heard the targas can have some shake, but I can't even describe how violent it is. I may take a video of it. The tires it came with had some uneven wear, and at least one tire has a broken belt in it. SWD Fredester 3 lent me some wheels with good tires, and that helped some but...

Does the catch can need to be hooked to the intake? What about just putting a small filter/vent on your can instead of a hose to the intake.

For your exhaust, I wouldn't go any smaller than 3". What motor you choose for the swap will probably depend mostly on your budget and your mechanics skills. I would think the 7MGTE would be the cheapest since it bolts right up, followed by the 1JZ, which bolts up but could cost more to...

No tools, but my supra had a softball sized rock jammed in the front of the converter.

I bought a 1988 NA 5 Speed Targa this winter, 170,000 miles. It is bone stock, all original as far as I know. My problem is this shaking going on. At less than 50mph I can feel some shaking or shuddering in the suspension(I think). On really smooth roads it almost goes away, but on any bit...

Amp'd, loop'd, something like that... I didn't think about that, I do have the GTS so basically nothing will be the same huh...I was looking at custom coilovers, but I'm not trying to spend $2000+, before I know how the car drifts with the 1JZ up front...

Looking good, always nice to see another drift celica. I've see you on the Monster/Amped website a while ago. What did you do for the suspension on your celica? There is nothing offered for the RA65 celica other than some street tokico or similar shocks/springs...I do have a set of addco...

Hey how about everyone who has posted here join the "Maryland Supras" Social Group? That's what it's for right? http://www.supramania.com/forums/group.php?groupid=36

Here's a thread on SupraForums with the answer; http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463641 They say the 91-92 7MGTE starter bolts on. The 1987-1990 7MGTE will work also with some modification. They also say the 2JZ starter works fine, they don't say turbo or NA, but I would...

Is there any easy way to test the MAP out of the car? I haven't figured out how to get some probes into the wires without cutting the sheath. Can I test it at the ECU? It doesn't help that there is only a few inches of the MAP harness coming out of the firewall, behind the intake manifold...

Yea, have them put 2 bolt flanges on both sides of the test pipe and cat, then you can switch them in and out.

afracers results worry me a little. I just put a set of JDM 440s into my 1JZ, but didn't have them cleaned or tested. Now I wish I did. $18 is a good price, I paid $25 each a while ago through RC Engineering.

The vacuum line is new and good, I'll put a zip tie on the MAP side. My coils are bolted down, though one is cracked I don't think it would cause the problem I've having. I used this procedure for my TPS. I'll admit it ran better after that, especially the tip-in, but it still has the same...