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I believe that any 3 wire o2 sensor would work, but I don't think that you will be able to find one that will plug into your harness directly. You will probably have to cut the plug off of the factory sensor and splice it on to the new sensor.

Pretty impressive. How did you pull that off with stock injectors? I was leaning out (13:1) with 85 psi fuel pressure (Can you hear that screaming? Oh, its my fuel pump.) on the stock injectors.

Lets not get greedy now... :biglaugh:

Sorry for the discrepency. At the time that I originally started this thread, there were a couple "unofficial" group buy feelers in the group buy forum. Rather than emailing you like I should have, I just posted mine also. My apologies. Stay tuned everyone, the 62-1 kit is being mocked up now...

Fuel cut frequency is rpm dependent. In other words, if the ECU sees 1200hz at 5000rpm its fine, but 1200hz at 3000rpm, it will cut (not actual numbers, just an example). Unfortunately there is no magic number to avoid fuel cut with.

Mobile1 75/90. Works great in open or LSD rears.

The turbo should coast alot longer after the engine is turned off. It looks pretty tired.

List of mods: Custom JP Autoworks water/air intercooler w/ 3" piping GM 3" maf (blow thru) Fidanza flywheel TRD clutch Wiseco 8.5:1 pistons 1mm oversize Ferrea valves NA cams Pocket ported head Custom 3.5" turbo outlet elbow Full 3" exhaust with Borla muffler (no cat) HK$ FCD Vortech...

Either turn your headlight switch off but not all the way back so the lights stay up, or turn the lights on and then unplug the passenger side headlight motor.

Red - +12v Black - Ground Green - IG (tach signal) White - karman signal input (connect to signal from AFM) Yellow - karman signal output (connect to ecu) Set dial to the number 3 position Your fuel cut is GONE. Remember be careful because you WILL run lean if you get too greedy with...

Will do.

Yeah..... :icon_conf

Dyno scheduled for Monday the 19 th at 6 PM. This will be the 60-1 ct26 session.....

Ditto tubbie. That guy is full of crap. You can make a lot of power on the stock ecu with piggybacks. Yes you will need bigger injectors or an FMU (fuel management unit) which is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I would also definately upgrade the fuel pump regardless of which route you go.

Turbo is definately f'd , I would be more concerned on the condition of your engine after inhaling most of your compressor wheel.....

Set the crank to 0 deg and remove the oil fill cap. If you can see the lobe on the cam pointing at you, you got the compression stroke...if not you are 180 out.

Although it is not 100% necessary, I would highly recommend it. I ran my stock intercooler and pipes with my upgraded CT for 2 years and although there was a significant gain in power compared to the stock turbo, it blew my mind how much more power you can make with a good intercooler. I gained...

Sorry guys, internet was down for a couple days. My upgraded CT is starting to blow smoke (again....second rebuild), so hopefully there is enough left in it for the base line pulls. I would really like to wait until I get bigger injectors before the dyno pulls to fully show the potential of both...

Sounds like you are hitting fuel cut so I would say AFM for sure, but you already ruled that out. Same problem happened to my buddy with an MR2 and it turned out to be a faulty TPS.

I have the rear interior removed (seat, carpet, spare, all rear plastics and seat belts), and the A/C is removed (condensor, lines, compressor) and it weighs 3390 with 1/4 tank of gas and has a 56/44 front/rear weight distribution with no driver(A guy I work with races and has the scales for...