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those are the hks replicas right? I seem to remember hearing alot of bad things about them. But that's just me....if you suspect compressor surge...your bov isn't doing its job. You may want to check all the lines to the BOV and make sure its on its own vacuum source. Also check to make sure...

i would put my money on a bad dimmer....i had one...u crossed two wires i shouldn't have while wiring a stereo....didn't think much of of it until later that night. if its just your dash lights(climate control as well) i would say that is where your problem is.

if the darker brown was lighter...i'd be all over it

yea...lol...i love having a stock look to a powerfull car...since then i have actually moved it to where the stocker boost gauge went. it was very difficult. and im not happy with the way it turned out. my thoughts would actually be an electric kit...whole new setup. i say electric cause...

i would be down with that. more detail would be nice though.

a/r stands for area/radius. you need the area of the exhaust inlet and then divide that by the distance between the center of the turbine outlet and the center of the exhaust housing. i believe the ct-26 sits int he high .4x section... i think you messed up on your calculations. i think...

11.9 volts is pretty low...especially with no load. you should be at 12.7 i believe it is with no load for a health battery. i am going to say you have a problem with your battery. volts are pretty irrelevant. you need to test and see to make sure you have enough power(amps) from the battery...

take it out....FC is your friend.

actually any lock smith(auto ones atleast) will be able to cut it for you if you get them the key code...most dealerships where i live won't be able to cut a key based from the vin...their reasoning is that the car is too old.. to get the lock code...you will have to take the interior door...

can you swap them like that?

make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks as well. i had an issue with compressor surge and it was cause by a vacuum leak. doesn't have to be just on the BOV line ether. mine was leaking at those vsv things i think they are called...the hose fell off. don't those BOV's have a screw to adjust...

mine sits where it would when the engine is warm...maybe slightly less on cold days....however never above -16 in/hg

i just used the stock location and pieces from a hardware store...and i managed to get it to recirculate as well. works well.

the second video shows improvement but i want to see the thing go....and an air filter wouldn't be a terrible idea ether.

if you know what you are doing..yes...you can downsize the injectors. however..you will probably need to turn down the boost as well. you don't want to push the stockers too much...or any injector for that matter. you may be able to find a set of rc's for a good price in the classifieds here...

i would check the injectors....venoms are not very good. you could probably find a set of rc's on the forums for a decent price... a leaking head gasket wouldn't effect the afr readings. a failing injector can... when the afr goes wacky...does the car still drive fine...how does the engine...

how is it to shift with other gears for all the manual cars i have driven...fifth gear should be about the same as all the other gears...in older cars its usually the easiest gear to jump into...being it is the least used gear...especially in spirited city driving. i would first start off by...

a vacuum leak can cause your bov not to function properly. i use a turbo xs one and i had the same problem...until i fixed a vacuum leak that i hadn't noticed and the compressor surge went away

i would also check your oil level

when my clutch started to go...that is exactly what happened. it first showed its face at WOT in 5th...and then maybe a month and a half a steady decline to the point where i can barely make the car move at 50km/h and it is almost impossible to get ti going from a stop. you need a new clutch...