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i bit of extra steam when the engine is cold is completely normal....combustion produces water...or at least from my understanding. and i believe cats will produce more....i could be wrong though. you have gone threw the BHG test so i wouldn't worry about it...unless its a ton. every car i have...

if you are going to use the lexus afm and NOT upgrade the injectors....you will need to be able to tune...and thus a wide band oxygen sensor is almost necessary...aside from lots of dyno time. The point of adding the afm and injectors was because both were about 25% bigger than stock. so in...

well the lex afm is bigger(physically) to the supra one....just compare the two and you should be able to see right away as they are very different in size. Do you have a WBO2?

A FCD will do the trick...though they are generally shunned upon simply because of the purpose of fuel cut. That said...if you are going to remove fuel cut...do it properly. ethier get a FCD or use another air metering device. Creating a leak post afm will only cause more problems than...

i am having the very same problem...i plan on using a oxy-mds torch and just make the sucker red hot...should just glide off at that point.

if you want to rule out a BYHG rigyht away go get a block test and see if there is any carbon in your coolant...that is usually a dead give away...What are your mods and have you gone to a mhg and insured that your surfaces were prepped properly A old vacuum hose popping off is a good...

I bet if you knew your way around mega squirt you could the VGT to run with a 7M. And from my understand of what megasquirt can do it shouldn't be too hard once you figure out the turbo itself and how the vains work in relation to exhaust pressure

there really are some people that should never drive...and some people that should never work on their cars...and considering he wants to do it to a vette...im betting for both.

confirm that you aren't getting spark. find a spare plug and ground it out to see if you have spark. if not start there and find out why you have no/weak spark. you test your injectors? any codes?

i brought a potato cannon into class for a project and loaded with a "blank" it was all preloaded and basically made a big boom...teacher didn't think it was as awesome as i did. i thought it was wicked because we had this silencer type thing too so it was only about 3/4 as loud as it should...

im going to guess that you have a vacuum leak...we know you have been tinkering with the vacuum lines and a vacuum leak will cause idle issues and a running rich condition because you are losing metered air. i would go over ALL your vacuum lines to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak/boost...

i don't think that is too out of line for an n/a...i always hear about BHG on n/a's being like that. just make sure that water doesn't find its way into your oil...that's when you will be going kaboom and putting a rod through your block. anyway im pretty sure my prelude has a bad head...

a clogged cat will cause very late spool and power loss, especially at higher loads. in later stages it will cause a gas (kinda like kerosene) smell in the cabin...massive power loss...and i would be surprised if you could get your turbo to spool at all. also your downpipe, turbo housing and...

well if you are having issues with your afr's then i would start looking at what affects that. are you sure you have spark at all six plugs. the power band looks as though you have have a bad coil. because it seems to vary at a steady pace. because there is unburnt fuel (and tons of o2 because...

i usually sit around the low 20's. however when my knock sensors were out i would get numbers like you guys are talking about...maybe 150miles to a tank. it was brutal.

you will run rich...very rich i would get a better pump. fpr would be a good idea as it may help get you a/f ratios in line for those injectors. i believe your f/c will be raised significantly..if i recall your stock ct-26 will have trouble hitting it. A wb is a good idea...especially if you...

i would try to find turbo cams if you could...but the n/a cams will work...the n/a will shift your powerband to the lower rpms and hinder your top end. there was a dyno graph comparing them at various boosts somewhere on here. search for it. the w-58 will bolt up to the to the 7m but has been...

compressor surge is almost always caused by a faulty BOV. this happened becuase the BOV is unable to release the boost pressure when the throttle plate closes. this causes the pressure to come back to the turbo instead and harshly disrupts the compressor wheel speed thus causing the noise...

do let your car boost to 16psi...code 52 i believe messes with your f/c because when i have a code 52 i could hit 16 psi with out a sign of f/c... code 52 is your knock sensors and because they are not working your car goes into a safety mode. it runs pig rich and pulls timing...your car should...

when the car is cold..the fan should spin freely. I would check the water pump for make sure it is solid and spins freely. i would almost suspect too much tension in your case. if you wind it up too tight that will put a ton of pressure on everything..especially when the belt starts moving...