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I'm pretty sure that's the connector for the VSV there. I'm not sure, because I took off my VSV. Lol.

You don't need to take it off to accomplish what you need. Unless I'm mistaken the manual tells you to put the belt back on the camshafts after you install the harmonic balancer. So- I'd just leave it on if I were you. Also- speaking from my experiences over the past few days- you might want...

Way to be a douchebag, Jeff. :-P

I have to agree with CJ- If it was the balancer, you'd be able to distinguish that from rod knock. But who knows- that might just be opinion.

thanks- I didn't catch the "brake cleaner". Good eye.

Ouch... hearing that anyone has rodknock is painful... Good luck man.

Well guys- I got my head back yesterday, and it's back on and torqued down to 75 ft/lbs. More assembling tomorrow... But she's getting closer. :-D

If it's done right it'll hold quite a long time

They should work. One way to find out- go to toyota, and ask them if there's any difference between the two. The parts people should be able to look it up.

louky - yeah. It's expensive. But hell, that's why the mk3's are money pits... fotosoup - basically it is- because if the surfaces aren't basically perfect, they won't seal. That's why a lot of people use brake quiet or similar stuff on them- to fill in the imperfections in the metal.

Damn, man. That sucks. Sorry to hear that it happened... Good luck trying to get it straightened out!

I just paid $322 for a resurface and a full valve job. I was happy with the price, until I went to Toyota for the gasket set... that kicked it up to about $600 total for the gaskets and the machining. :-(

If you're talking about the lower heater hose that goes from the pipe at the rear of the block to the body, then I'd have to agree. It's nearly impossible to get that hose clamp tightened down while the engine is in the engine bay.

That's really good news! I'm happy with the shop that's done work for me too- reasonable prices, quality workmanship, and the willingness to allow you to hang around while they're working to see what they do. Really great guys- Napa Machine Shop in Petersburg, VA. Too bad you're in FL...

there isn't a real need to remove the cams unless you strip a headbolt or plan to do the valve job. If the motor missed at all before, it'd probably be a good idea to go on and take care of the valves now. nope. No bushings. All it is is a piece of metal machined to the correct diameter...

That doesn't sound like fun. What's even worse is when one of those clogs. THEN you have a problem...

Awesome- It's working. That's what matters. :-D

Quite honestly that's one of the worst ideas I've heard in a while. The Haynes manuals tell you just about enough to get you in trouble without going into enough detail to help you fix it. If you're going to get a repair manual, try to find one of the hardcopy TSRM or there's always the online...

Amen.

yeah- but it won't do much more than that. :-P