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Yeah, it can be done. It's just a pain and not really worth it, IMO.

It's all good. I'm just trying to help people out, because I've noticed how frustrated people get when they ask these kinds of questions and people give them useless answers. Thanks for the thought, though.

Why do the 2jz? I'm pretty sure you have to cut into the chassis to make it fit. The 1jz is only slightly less powerful anyways

I wasn't asking what to do- I was making the statement that people need to read the post before they reply with useless information that nobody wants to read.

Ok- This has been said before, and it will probably be said again. If someone makes a post asking what they can do to get more power out of an NA, don't reply with "go turbo". It doesn't help the person get any closer to their goal, and it just annoys everyone else. Thanks.

Reuse it- it'll seal. If you're that worried about it, you can use some FIPG on it, but it's really unnecessary. Engine oil on the bolts works great. Torque the bolts to 75ft/lbs. Trust me. Get the Toyota FIPG. You'll be happy you did later.

Not necessarily. Change the oil weight first. See if that corrects the problem. If not, the crank might be salvageable. If you pull it out, a machine shop will tell you whether it's history or not. Bearings, if it's knocking, should probably be replaced. This can get kinda pricey- also...

Just MAKE SURE YOU RE-TORQUE AFTER 500 MILES!!

When you filled it with oil, did you select the same and proper weight oil for the car? If not, you need to drain the oil and start from scratch- new oil, new filter. If it is the same weight, I'd suggest changing oil weights. Maybe someone else could recommend a weight for you- I've used...

Heh- one exorcism, coming right up!

Ok, I'll check the fuseable link for the alt when I get up in the AM... One problem is the battery- I must have cracked a cell or something... But in any case, it's dead. That's ok though, because it had a 36 month warranty and it was only 4 months old. So- It'll get replaced. However, the...

So- last night as I was walking to my house, I noticed that the brake lights on my supra (86.5 NA) were on. I figured I had left the switch partially on while I was working on it earlier. So- I walked out to it, and nothing was on, so I started messing with things to try to figure it out...

Think of where the EGR is run. You know that little cover on the back of the head? It routes the exhaust gas around the rear of the head. The hot exhaust gases raise the temperature of the rear of the head. If you block it off on the manifold side of the head, then it won't change the fact...

Figit- I was just kidding around. That wasn't really directed at anyone. I use a method similar to this when checking to see if injectors are functioning properly. I take a long screwdriver and get the tip on the injector, then put the handle against my ear to hear the clicking...

haha, hit yourself with the stick and you'll remember to be more careful next time! ;-)

Hehe, life's just dandy. The cows are looking nice and fat these days, and the corn's coming up right nicely. ;-)

If you're going to have the head resurfaced, you should get them to measure the head to see how much if any has been taken off of it. This goes for the valves as well- if you're getting the valves done, then you might run into trouble if they've been ground before. I had mine done, and this it...

Hahahahaha. It's all good. If I was an asshole, I'd have just been like "Man, it's a custom housing I had made for $100... sell it to you for $50!" lol... But I'm not, so it's all good. :biglaugh:

You can get one from Advance or anywhere that carries K&N filters.

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