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i just checked: compression - good fuel - good spark - good timing - good ic pipes -good now the car cranks but will not start... i'll try swaping ecu tomorrow

sorry the water temp sensor broke off... after i reset the ecu, i no longer have code 31 or 24 but the car will not start... if i try to pump the gas pedal and crank, it sounds like the car is choking. if i try and turn the key without pressing on the padel, it starts up inititally and stalls...

which wire do i measure for the 5 volts on the connector? do i measure this with the key turned to on? the temp sensor actually broke off. the car initially ran with the temp sensor off. after i resetted the ecu, i am only getting the code 22. will the car start w/o this being repaired?

code 22 - will this prevent the car from running or starting??? the connector going to the afm looks good, i even sprayed it with electrical cleaner spray. i did boost during the 40 min run... boost poorly but the car ran untill it stalled. i was able to drive it home but it was...

i just install my new turbo and ran the car for 40mins and then the car started to idle poorly and dead... code 24, 31 and 22 when i checked for codes. the know the afm is good; i have two and they both worked before the install.. code 22 is water temp sensor - not worried about this code 24...

MOD please delete... duplicate thread

i don't care about how it looks... the hks unit is cheap and does the job but i have heard that it doesn't work well with the vpc... is this true? can anyone confirm...

i know but i already got it... it was a deal i could pass up! please input

okay, just got my vpc hooked up and i don't know which one to buy, the hks safr or apexi safc. i did some research and most people use the apexi unit. my question is if the hks unit is cheaper and has more points for fine tunning, why not get this unit over the apexi... VPC users please...

i'll wait then.

what life span can i expect from the upgrader ct26 60-1?

spec 2 clutches suck... i had one last year, the clutch was broken in properly and everything, after a few street pulls the clutch started to slip... worst performance clutch ever. my spec 2 had about 2000 miles or so... i now have the clutchnet stage 3 and love it. i run the car 7 or 8 times...

time for a new turbo or rebulit...

mine smokes when it gets warm... i think my turbo is bad... i took off the o2 and looked inside; i saw drips of oil... not a whole lot but there was defintely oil inside. i check others later.

i just drained the catch can this morning, hardly anything in there. my setup has not changed at all. if the turbo seals are bad, does it smoke all the time??

how can i check?? i route my PCV to a catch can and then to the intake. i am not too familiar with the PCV system. turbo seal maybe... i hope not...

yes recirculated... you know that might be it... oil in the spark plug valley. i'd change the gaskets and everything. i did however notice oil in the valley.

Mark, how can i see if there are oil in the cynlinder? i know i have oil in the spark plug valley... would that count?

don't tell me that... the motor runs strong and idles perfect... if just smokes. remember when i was there last year for the meet... my car did not smoke like that. new block and new head; i hope its something small. can't i run the for 1yr without problems... DAMN... finally got it...

are you referring to the two nipple on top of the valve cover thats goes to the catch can??? if so, i routed them to the catch can.