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Nevermind. I think i got it figured out

Yeah its an auto but i thought they are the same except for auto trans stuff. So use igf (rpm1) for the rpm signal? Is thete even an rpm2? I didnt see one on there but i have read some people saying they tried rpm1 and rpm2

Basically it seems like its not seeing any rpm signal. Which pin on the ecu is good to use for an rpm signal?

Hi guys, just got a bee-r limiter for my 1jz. I have a stock jzz30 ecu. We wired it up today using the wiring guide in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?74363-Bee*R-rev-limiter-Installation-Guide-%28JZA70-specific%29 After doing research there seems to be a lot of...

Well, I use BKR7E's. I have put 5 sets of brand new plugs in it after all the times it ran rich for a while. I guess it can't hurt to throw another set in there. Also, a random question. Does the ecu need the knock sensors to be plugged in to be happy. Because from what I understand, knock...

Nevermind, found Dr Tweaks website, will give him a call monday

Also, I was offered a jzx90 harness. Can anyone confirm that jzx90 harnesses/jzz30 harnesses and ecu's are interchangeable? From what I can google they are but I'm not 100% sure.

Yeah, I heard of Dr Tweak before. Does he have a website or do you know his contact info? And I figure it has to be the shortening of the harness because the car ran perfectly before we messed with the harness and we components that were not being used at all and shortened all the other stuff...

And I am searching for a harness. And when I find another one, I will still remove all the not needed wires. I just won't have all the other wires shortened

Ok, so explain to me how removing an oem diagnostics connector that I will clearly never ever have any use for is a bad thing. Its not rocket science. The car runs perfectly and has a shitload of electrical connectors in the harness that aren't plugged into anything. So clearly, those are not...

So one last question. This may be a dumb question but do you think something could be wrong because we crimped our connections and didn't solder them? We used good quality open ended parallel crimp connectors (not crappy walmart crimp connectors) and heatshrinked around them. Do you think...

So anyone know if the ecu needs to see m-rel and the fuel pump?

Also, after looking over wiring diagrams some more, my friend saw that the stock wiring uses separate power for the coil and injector circuits but he just has it all wired into one power source. So he thinks that maybe the car idles fine but when you rev it it does not give enough power to...

Well here is a list of everything we eliminated. Do any of these things seem like they would need to be there for the car to run properly? The only ones that I can think of that sound important are at the bottom of the list, M-Rel (main relay) and FPC and D1 (both are fuel pump control relay)...

Well we could try calibrating it again but we calibrated it with a multimeter and made sure it is in spec. We used 2jz tps volt specs to do it. I think they are the same.

Hmm, I'm pretty sure we eliminated all not needed connectors. Guess we will just have to go over the wiring again.

Well there was in my case, you should have seen how long those wires were in comparison to where they needed to plug in. But from what I understood about googling shortening shielded wires, its not that bad to shorten them. The ones people really are concerned about shortening are in non car...

Could shortening the shielded wires (such as knock sensor and cam sensor) have been a bad idea?

Yeah, i figured that much, its just that the ecu is not throwing anymore codes and all the sensors seem to check out fine so I'm just wondering what sensor could be responsible for this? Because even though everything seems good, something is still messed up. Could it be tps wiring? But I read...

Anyone know what could cause this?