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Stock PP is fine with a 6 puck. It will easily hold 500+ rwtq. I started to slip at 28 psi with that set up. A stiffer PP will increase the torque if you need it, if not just through the disk in.

350rwhp might be possible but that is pushing it at 14 psi, especially with that turbo and a stock afm. You can make 400 but it will need a few more psi to do it.

Don't be afraid of fcd's. You can deto and break a ring land while running rich at 15 psi too.

440's and stock afm are good for 400rwhp.

Thye may or may not check for a charcoal canister, depends on the tester. I have never failed for removing an EGR on an EGR equipt vehicle. They will check for a cat though. There are allways atleast 2 people per line and then they are always changing. No easy way to get a failing car through...

If this is at AZ Dyno Chip I may be in, if it's ok as I don't have a MKIII, but have a 7M. Let me know.

Let it warm up. It should be atleast in the 12's if it's cold out till the O2 is heated up enough and the temp comes up. I wouldn't worry about 10's. Wait till it's fully warmed and see what you have. If it's a little rich (13's) give it a few days to correct.

The new MSII code has knock retard http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=23416. I'm still running the older code so I can't comment on it.

Pull the turbo elbow off. If it's oily it's the turbine seal, easy fix.

Sounds like it's your VPC. ECU is open loop till it's warm, then it will correct based on O2.

Sounds like the beginings of a rumor. Stock fpr is fine to whatever psi you want to run. I've pegged my 30 psi boost gauge. Knock, which leads to extremely high cylinder pressure. Too lean can lead to deto but you would have to be 1 psi or so away from knock to begin with. Too lean at lower...

The ecu has no problem correcting for 550's under closed loop so there isn't a need to correct fuel at any there. Only plavce you would want to maybe pull some is under load. If you need to pull that much larger injectors aren't needed. I never ran 680's with the stock ecu to coment on them. As...

Fine tune? That's what the ecu/piggy back is for. Injectors need to run at a set pressure. Going up or down a few psi isn't neccesary. Going down being worse as you loose flow. If one knows how to tune the ecu/piggyback they are not needed.

Not really a mystery. Just has become popular on mkiii boards, just as egt's were a few years ago were a wideband was really needed. Get an safc or safr instead. Adjusting the fuel pressure to change your afr is a bad idea as it changes it across the board. Unless you are running twin pumps and...

If you are going from .1 to .9 at idle or anywere you have a problem. If it is varrying the whole range of voltage it won't know were it should be. Reset an ecu and check it, mine was rich everytime (checked with LM1 too) for a few days before settling downto stoich (.45 with a narrow band)...

Being that the ecu just measures the voltage, same as with a dvm, there is no need to use a scope to measure in miliseconds. If you just measure the voltage it will be .4-.5 at stoich, .8-.9 at WOT.

Have you actually measured the voltage? On how many cars?

Don't think so, .4 and .5 maybe. .9 would be as rich as it could get and .1, it wouldn't be able to run.

I've checked 2, both were around 40 psi without vac and 35/36 with.

Yopur fp is pretty low, any reason it's lower than stock? Get an fcd and be done with fc forever. If your afr is in the 10's there is now reason to go with lex/550 unless you are going higher later. You can make your own fail safe with a NC pressure switch if you want safety.