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hold the brake and give it gas, it'll prespool the turbo and its easier on the tranny as far a setup, stickier tires, stiff front/soft rear, and removing the front sway will help

I think we're arguing two different things ;). yes, i know that 10psi from turbo "x" is the not the same as 10psi from turbo "y" (no pun intended there hehe). when i said it "shouldnt make a difference," i was referring to air/fuel ratios, not power output. so again, our airflow based fuel...

moorman, how sure are you that you have the correct afm? because according to my calculations, using 40psi as base pressure, youre getting about 12% more fuel by bumping to 50psi. the lex maf is supposed to be 25% bigger and you still trimmed fuel another 18%. I know the stock ecu runs pig rich...

take note of my terminology. i said airflow is airflow, not boost is boost or psi is psi. 30lb/min of airflow, whether from a t28 or a t88 is still 30lb/min of airflow and our ecu, which reads airflow, not pressure, as load, will add the same amount of fuel in both instances. now, this could...

no youre right its not, he said it was a modified t3 @ 10-12psi. airflow is airflow though right? shouldnt make a difference

hmm, i wouldnt have thought a little bump in base pressure and the screw bypass would make such a big difference. the afr difference between the stock afm w/ screw out vs lex afm on the dyno posted is huge. do you have a dyno of yours w/ afr readings? btw if you have a safc couldnt you just...

you guys running the stock injectors w/ lex afm, i assume youre adding fuel through some type of piggyback, right?

wasnt aware of the metal pipe trick. it may work but still, there's a better, simpler solution....like a silicone reducer. yes i've used pvc as piping. never right from the turbo though. I don't have to try it to know it will deform under heat.

:aigo: i just saw a supra dyno (stock ecu, afm screw pulled out for a little more unmetered air, intake, exhaust, stock dp, 11psi). a/f was off the chart's 10:1 after 4.5k rpm. I suspect it went down to at least 9:1 and thats with the screw backed out. as a matter of fact, heres the dyno...

what was the tq reading? what kind of dyno was it? didnt they offer afr readings? can you post the dyno theres gotta be something wrong if youre only making 200hp. have you checked for boost leaks? do you have a boost gauge, whats it reading?

pvc isnt recommended for piping cause it softens/melts at a low temp (also gives off harmful fumes but you probably dont mind that). some people get away with using it on intakes, so maybe it'd work for the charge pipe on a turbo setup (cold side) but it definitely wouldnt work for the hot pipe...

what does a safr do differently than a safc? they're both piggybacks that use load, rpm, and tps to modify fuel. the amount of air that is released is adjusted by the dec air setting... from the safc manual:

multipurpose cleaner sold just about everywhere locally. good stuff

^ yeah you can, only not for karman type meters that use frequency vs voltage output. maf sensors also meter air before the turbo but the rich stumble can be corrected via safc by telling it to clamp the maf output voltage to a non rich condition when "x" -deltaThrottle is applied. map...

MBC (if thats what you mean) and BOV are two different things

i dont know if theyll clear but i can tell you it'll look bad. those are fwd offsets. the stock wheel sinks enough and it has a lower offset. you want something in the 20's to be flush witht the fenders

thats what i wanted to hear :) are you gonna be installing the maft pro soon?

actually most, if not all efi motors have a 1:1 fpr. it really doesnt add more fuel. what it does is balance out the pressure difference in the manifold/fuel line. during boost there's pressure pushing up into the injector so fp is bumped to counteract this, during vacumm, its the opposite, fuel...

what does it sound like? fluttering? put as many washers as it takes without getting compressor surge, then back off one. turboxs recommends it for 10-20psi so if youre still at 11psi like your sig says, the first washer should be enough. maybe you need a better vac source...try the brake...

^ it means the car is running off the battery only, not getting charge from the alt. i've had a similar problem and it turned out to be a bad connection at the alternator. check its ground and the wire coming from it.