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http://www.spoolinperformance.com/steel-degree-elbow-p-173.html i'd be surprised if you could find a better price Stainless, 3" radius, 6" legs, $32

you dont need a valve. just move the same vac line over to the other bov

it may help others with the same problem if you post how you fixed it ;)

did you check sensor voltge first? if not, try it, etc>sensor check

because it leaned out? or was it something else

have you opened it up? whats inside? I have an egay cheapo that looks very similar. I was planning on fabbing up to function somewhat like this (mckinney's):

heres a little diy one i made, it switches from two boost settings with a switch mounted on your dash and costs about $50 to make, the most expensive part is the solenoid so if you can salvage one from a junked car (just your basic 12v open/close solenoid) it'll be even cheaper as far...

sleeper :cool: you can jump the wires on teh plug to bypass the resistor

shaeff, does your catch can have a nipple on the bottom?

you think the spacer is going to explode at 150mhp or something, lol. theres nothing wrong with using spacers as long as there's enough stud, like shaeff said. a lot of nissan guys use extended studs/studded spacers with no problems. I was wanting to use some 8mm spacers that are just...

what's the thickest spacer one can safely use on stock studs?

I have a greddy warning gauge controlling it for now. It has an optional output (meant to be used for a buzzer) that gets power when the preset boost is met. I'm using this to complete the circuit that activates the injection system. It's set at 14psi so it will only inject when on the high...

dont block the top one, it has to be vented.

if by "cam cover" you mean the caps, then no, unless you have them line bored. that applies to swapping caps even from another gte

what kind of wg is it? usually, you only use the side port.

the more timing you can get away with before detonation, the more power (it does reach a plateau where no more gains are made, thats where the dyno comes in). I originally asked the question because i was considering a water/alky injection kit to help keep intake temps down at high boost...

bad fpr? did you try pressurizing it with the line off?

alright I'll do that. how do i flush teh radiator? do i use the same tee and leave the hoses/plugs on with the rad cap off? or stick the garden hose in the radiator and vent the tee?

sorry guys, im fairly new to supras, still learning. I heard 400 as a safe hp figure. so whats a better number for someone who isnt shooting for the "highest hp from stock block" throphy? i suppose it depends on the efficiency of the system, but i've seen logs of AIT being over ambient with...

alright, thanks.