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my car did the same exact thing... it started as once in a while, and it got worse per time.. it would die as soon as the throttle plate closes.. but it idled fine... and no codes either... I pulled the Idle air control valve, took it apart, cleaned the plastic bearing where the spindle move in...

Thanks for the reply.. One other thing is, when I install my new rack, how do I make shure the rack is at center of its travel ? the gear housing input shaft got splines, but not notched to make sure the steering shaft only goes on one way.. I will reuse the tie rod ends, and cound number of...

Found the problem today.. It was the #6 cylinder injector wiring was at fault. This is the last time I use crimb connectors for injector wiring.. after soldering, problem went away.. thanks for all the replies..

Could it be caused by a bad EGR valve ? if so, shouldn't I get a code?

I replaced the plugs this weekend, made sure the plug wires are tight, made sure the injector pluggs are tight.. but no avail.. still got the shaking car with low EGTs.. How would I know if this is related to any of the injector not functioning correct ? Boost gauge still shows same...

I am going to replace the steering rack in my 87T. Passenger side boot is ripped, but no leak yet. I am not planning to replace the tie rod ends, since they are just fine. I have the TSRM for instructions. But TSRM talks about how to remove one in the car, fix it, then re-install. I will...

I would replace the housing bolts (2) atleast once... The bottom one corroded out on mine.. had to drill out the broken stud..

I got bit of a problem with my 87T. Car starts out fine in the morning. After driving for 10 miles or so on highway, when I come to a stop (like in the exit), the car developes this shaking as if it is going to stall.. Car usually idles around 800 (kinda high for turbo), but when the shaking...

I rebuilt my front caliper and it siezed after 1 year of use.. Now, I just replaced with O'reilly rebuilt caliper for $ 27.99

I was looking for a cheap radiator. Found Silla Radiator at autoparts warehouse for $ 111.0 Any one have any experience with this brand? I have no plans for over-stock performance for this 87Turbo. Any other suggestions for a cheap radiator? thanks.

thanks for all the replies.. i ordered up 2 balljoints from rockauto..

Do I need to do alignment after balljoint replacement? or I can do both sides same time and avoid alignment? Thanks.

I guess I will look for MOOG Part # K9521 ? same for both sides? The balljoint nut is tight..

To describe better, I am attaching a drawing.. I am able to shake the passenger side front wheel hub whith the wheel removed. From inspection, it seems the the part where the lower A-arm connects to the hub assembly is shaking (is this the lower-ball joint?). What could be worn? the part...

Thanks BlackMKIII.. I edited the vin# out of the forum.. will use the link you sent..

Hi, If you have carfax access, can anyone check this vin for me? xxx thanks.

looks like this unit can have some pressure drop.. i thought having any appreciable pressure drop in pcv line is not a good thing..

89+ hose from dealership dont come with all the small pipes coming out of the according hose.. hence the lower price..

let us know if you do.. I have same mods, and cant pass TX smog test.. i also have a RT high flow cat..

My Exhaust tip is pretty black.. soot i guess.. so, i always thought I was running rich... So, what cause it to run run far away from 14.7 ratio? Why am I also failing for HC if I am running lean? not burning enough? Car idles around 700 rpm.. does that mean closed loop also? Houston...