I'm looking all over for replacements for the rear brake dust shields on my 89 supra. New ones are over $600 for the pair, not worth it. I finally found a solution that anyone can easily use. I picked up two air cleaner holders from older chevy pickups - the smaller ones, not the full size...
First, I really appreciate your input. Yes, it sounds like a false savings to keep my down pipe, even though it's new, to avoid buying one that fits a T4 setup. I imagine I could also make myself a flange to convert to T4. Strangely I haven't seen anyone selling one. I don't know if your...
Depends on what you mean by "not working", can't turn the wheels at all, or stiffer with fluid than without. Check belt tension, easiest thing to be altered in the body shop, then try bleeding air from the system by turning to the stops in each direction and holding for 10 seconds, repeating at...
I talked to Aaron at DriftMotion (thanks Aaron), and did a bunch of reading. I was surprised how hard it was to collect the information, which seems to be basic and obvious, but not written in one place. If anyone has compiled a list of turbochargers and mounting formats for the 7MGTE, I'm sure...
The only crank swap I have heard about is a 6M crank, found on early year 7M engines as i understand it. It is supposed to be lighter for a slightly higher redline, and probably a bit more vibration.
Your power goals are a bit beyond the safe range for the stock pistons. The stock rods might...
A simple swap takes $2000 by the time you are done, if you do all the work yourself, have the tools, time and space, and make good choices on where you spend your money. To do it nicely you might want $3000. If you have a front clip of a supra turbo of compatible year it helps, but you still...
I spent the day researching new turbos, and ended up writing Aaron. I would like to get community response too, if possible. My goal is a responsive and powerful engine for driving below 90 mph, for daily driving. If I ever get time to go racing it would be drift racing.
The first version...
Need pics and wire colors in the loose connector to help with that. It could easily explain the problem. It doesn't sound like a swap, but that would matter. The most methodical way to troubleshoot electrical, since you are reconnecting all the wiring. would be to follow the TCCS voltmeter tests...
That's what I thought, it should be simple, but then I remember getting confused about the color of wires coming off of the trans. versus those yellow and red/black wires coming from body wiring. You have to identify the backup light wires coming from the trans by the connector, not the color...
Still no backup lights? That stinks. It should be simple, which is always a bad way to start a sentence... I may have misled you with my previous post, so I'll try again. Hopefully I won't make it worse.
First you need a yellow wire from the fuse box with power. If not it's a bad fuse or...
IMHO, I don't think it's a good idea. The engine compartment tends to be hot anyway. I ran a few days with an open O2 sensor hole on my DP elbow area and I melted some paint and plastic vacuum lines.
I really think your belt tension is off and you are not getting enough spin on the vane pump pulley to reach full pressure. Even a little slipping of the belt can give you very stiff steering. If you have the GTE vane pump, try that with the NA rack, or check the belt length. The adjustment nut...
how bout this: take the money and ask them to sell you the car for the salvage value and deduct that from the payment. That should leave you enough cash to pay for the frame work, then do the rest yourself?
when you modify the harness, but haven't tested it, people have to assume anything could be wired to anything, so there's no way to help you diagnose it. You should run through all the voltmeter checks for the fuel injection system in the TSRM and document the results for future reference. it...
Thanks, that's just what I was looking for. I'm just aiming to trace back the program flow from where the maps are accessed to summarize what we know about each calculation from sensor input to map use, to outputs affected. If am am reading your notes correctly, there are a few short sections...
I had the bearing whine also when I did my swap and a new clutch. it did it the first time I started it, and again a few times sporadically, now it seems to work fine. Not sure what was up with that. It went away so fast I didn't look into it.
you have to follow the procedure to bleed air out of the system. I haven't read it in a while, but this works for me: turn to the extreme right and hold, to the left and hold, repeat until no foam or air in the fluid. I have overfilled by mistake and it didn't cause hard turning, but its easy...
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