So I removed the throttle body to remove the Idle Air COntrol valve. I figured that was stuck open as most toyotas are on start up. I removed the two screws holding the IACV in place and found a 7/16" hole into the intake mani. Luckily I had a 1/4" NPT Tap and plug that fit the bill. I...
I pretty much cleaned up the engine and secured all the IC piping since I have gotten most of it welded. I have the car running but the Stinger is idling at 1900-2000rpms. I do not see any obvious boost leaks so I will attempt to manipulate the TPS tomorrow.
I pretty much cleaned up most of the bay. just the drivers shock tower has to be addressed tomorrow. I have the car starting and running out the downpipe. I do not see any obvious boost leaks but the car is idling at 1900rpms. I have not touched the stock TPS just yet.
OK so the brackets look kinda stupid but they work. I will have to make Fog Light Filler plates for the bumper. to fill in the space by stuffing a little circle into a spot for the OEM big rectangular light. I also decided to make new bumper mounted out of a piece of 3/4" flat aluminum...
SO I cleaned up the interior of the car, and begain working on the fog lights. I am retrofitting the ES300 light. Right now Im fabbing up some brackets to get welded tomorrow.
Good News... My IS300 coil packs and DH61 igniter wiring were dead on. So was my CPS wiring. Bad news... I wired the power for the Stinger to a 12v switched source from the driver fuse panel that was turned off during cranking :( I have since rewired that Stinger power source to the Dash...
OK,
So.. lesson learned, the 12v switched power source I had wired for the Stinger was switched off during cranking :( I fixed that fubarred decision and the CPS sync'd up nicely. I set the timing according to Shaeffs calibration sticky, and then I ran a timing light on the motor. I then...
Here is a look at the almost finished product - if only I could get a crank signal.
Here is a picture of the Stinger Crank trigger Harness... I test all three wires for continuity from ends to ECU plug and they are good.
Here is a picture of everything else on the Tuning Software. I seem...
At TDC on the crank and cam marks, the CPS seems lined up
If I am looking at the TEWD correctly...
1 - NE - Trigger - #8 on Stinger
2 - G1 - Cam Signal TDC - #20 on Stinger
3 - G- - Ground - #21 on Stinger
4 - G2 - Cam Sign 6TDC - NOT USED
Strange thing.... No matter what wire...
Summer has been crazy......
So I was attempting to wire up the 2JZGE Stock ECU into the MA70 chassis harness, but I decided to table that idea (since this will be a hobby car/Track car) also, so that I can eliminate the rev limiter. I ended up buying a Stinger from Aaron@ Driftmotion. I...
Im almost certain the EFI is good. I know the fuel pump turns on... I will validate that EFI tomorrow. Im not too familiar with the CPS, how would I validate that is setup correctly and its sending a signal? I also have to validate if my coilpacks are wired in the proper sequence. I...
OK I have my Fuel Pump wired up and working correctly off a relay and the Stinger Aux output#1. I have wired in and secured the IS300 coilpacks and IS300 igniter. I cant even get a sputter right now. Car just cranks. I need to validate my basemap settings.
On to the wiring:
Body Plugs____________________________________DH61 Igniter
4 Pin Input____________________________________10 Pin(GS300)_________10 Pin(IS300)
IGf (Not required)__LG-B__Pin Position #1___->____IGF__B____Pin Position #4__B-L
IGt (Coil #1)______LG____Pin Position...
OK, So I am attempting to crank the motor. I can hear the fuel pump successfully turn on with the Stinger and it cuts off after a few seconds if the engine is not started. I have an SC300 motor so I set the timing trim in the Stinger to 10*BTDC (oem 2JZGE setting)
Load Source = Manifold...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.